Thursday, March 14, 2019

Tactics Principles

I already had a blog post about the topic of tactics principles but this one will be more in-depth.

Opening Principles
We've heard 'em before: get a pawn or two in the center, develop most of your minor pieces, get your king safe, try not to move the same piece a lot in the opening, and keep your pieces coordinated. These are but a few and I'm sure most "advanced beginners" are aware of them! If not, read Chernev.

What is the purpose of these? Without them, a new player might play 1. a4? followed by 2. a5? "Hey, I'm getting my pawn only three squares from promotion, right? I can maybe get a second queen soon! Oh, maybe I'll bring the castle out, too. He seems super destructive!" 3. Ra4??

I remember teaching my nephew the rules of chess over Christmas and he opened with 1. h3. I probably played something similar back in the day so I can't blame him.

Another new player might make his or her decision by going through each possible move until one looks good. "1. a3nah. 1. a4? maybe. 2. b3? hmmm.... 2. b4? Ohhh I like that. Ohh, the horsey can jump over pawns, so Nc3? Ohh wait the Queen is the best, how fast can I get her out? Oh god what do I do?"

The opening principles help the beginner navigate through the jungle of options they have to face when starting a game. Once you understand them, you can more easily identify moves that align with those principles and ta-da! You have a set of candidate moves to calculate!

Tactical Principles
We have opening principles, why not have tactical principles?

All games begin the same so it's sensible to make a general guideline on how to approach the opening. My theory is that most tactical puzzles begin the same in that often have one or two common elements present and you can develop a structured approach to help your decision-making. 

Over time this approach will hopefully become more instinctual.

In the same way that a beginner might have no idea how to begin a chess game, he might not know how to solve a typical tactics problem. Like the jungle of options in the opening, a player might also see a jungle of options when presented with a tactical problem. They might think they have to check every single possible move but we know that is not practical. He is told "look for checks and captures" but that is probably all the advice given. In reality, there are usually some common elements at play. These are (with the help of a redditor):

Underdefended Pieces - First off, completely undefended pieces are easily prone to attack! There are also poorly or under-defended pieces to consider as well. These might be pieces attacked as many times as they are defended or pieces only defended by heavy pieces (overworked piece tactics!)

Favorable Geometry - Lines. Diagonals. Fork-able positions. Major pieces (both white's and black's) may fall favorably within those geometries. Such a position may also be forced!

Trapped Pieces - This can include the king obviously! Usually it is the heavy pieces or a bishop trapped by pawns but keep your mind open!


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

These are the elements you'll want to search for in most tactics puzzles. They serve as tactic locators. From these, you might be able to use tactical motifs in combination with calculation using checks and captures as shortcutsI look at it in terms of the situation, the tools to use, and the work needed to use those tools. These tactical elements comprise the situation, the tools you will use are tactial motifs like forks or removing the defender, and the work needed is calculation often using checks and captures to begin.

Granted, as you get better, you might immediately see a weak king, spot a quick check and then see that that'll attack something else. You obviously won't need to list out all the under-defended pieces and such. That's okay (ideal!). This guide can be for when you're truly clueless or for those just beginning tactical study and you want to build the proper instincts.

A caveat before the examples: you need to be very familiar with pretty much all of the tactical motifs available. See ChessTempo.

Examples
Below are some simple examples of ChessTempo tactics puzzles. I'll try to highlight some of what I see in regards to the tactical elements I mentioned so you can try to develop your own approach.


1. Black to move

Let's be methodical! 

Favorable geometry?
I typically think of this in terms of lines and diagonals and I look at the opponent's king as well as all major pieces of mine and my opponent's that might be on any of those lines or diagonals. This is an important element in pins, skewers, discoveries, x-rays, and forks. Keep in mind the unusual formations involved in knight-forks. I lovingly call these "fork-able" positions (think king on h1 and rook on d1). 

So in this example, I see that white's queen and bishop are on the same diagonal. Typically a queen and rook on the same diagonal is better for tactics since it's hard to attack a queen and bishop on a diagonal. Likewise, a queen and bishop on the same rank/file is better suited. I also see that my (black's) knight is one move away from checking the king. This should excite the "forking" part of your tactical brain! Of course, you can quickly see that you don't have a great knight check right now because white's pieces guard it well. But it's still good to spot this! You never know if/when those pieces will move. Just being aware of that possibility five moves down the road might be helpful so it's good to train your brain to spot this geometry, however impossible it might be at the present moment.

You might see more possibilities in the 'favorable geometry' department and that's good! But we'll move on...mostly because this is getting long and I already know the answer ;).

Trapped Pieces?
Trapped pieces are a bit more rare, but remember that a King is considered a piece so a king with few options could be considered trapped! Anyway, let's go to the other pieces first. The queen isn't really close to being trapped. I could trade bishops and then the queen has to re-take but I don't see much after that to threaten the queen. Bishops are hard to trap unless they are blocked in and attack-able with pawns. Knights are easy to block in with bishops. I don't see anything promising with those though. Ditto with the rooks. Always check for trapped pieces, especially for the king and when a queen or rook's movement is seriously hindered by pawns and other pieces. The king in the corner has only one escape square if it's threatened--back-rank issues may be present here!

Undefended and underdefended pieces?
This is getting long and I won't go into specifics but underdefended pieces are those attacked at least as many times as they are defended. These are prime for tactics such as a simple removing the defender or a tricky intermezzo! In our first example, one thing that should jump out is the rook on e1. Completely undefended! And remember that well placed knight from the "Favorable Geometry" section? It can't really give a strong check right now, but it is watching h2. That in itself is almost a form of favorable geometry-when a piece is guarding over a mating square! And black's queen can swing over to h4 to threaten mate in one on h2! Qh4 also attacks black's undefended rook! Tactic!

See how that came together by highlighting some of the elements! It may have seemed like I fed it to you towards the end but the point is that you can take stock of a position by checking these elements and the answers slowly reveal themselves. Naturally, many reading this probably saw the mate threat pretty quick and shortly after that, saw that it hit the undefended rook--which is good! But this system is aiming to help those less familiar with tactical ideas or when you have no clue as to what's going on in a tactical position.

Now typically, you aren't gonna have time to run down this insane checklist to take stock of the situation. Instead, make it a priority to at least notice some of them and usually they'll point you in the right direction. If that fails, you might have to sort through all of them and then resort to calculating all checks and captures. For this puzzle, I remember pretty quickly seeing a knight check I had with Nf2+ so I was looking for favorable geometry for a fork but it really didn't work. However, that still brought to my immediate attention that I had a knight very close to their king. Then my eye saw that the queen could come in to h4 to threaten mate. And that's when I spotted the undefended rook. Oh! I then saw the move! So you see, I didn't go through a whole checklist, but just spotting one of the tactical elements pointed me in the right direction. It highlighted the undefended piece and boom, I had my tactic!

Answer: Qh4 threatens Qxh2# and it also attacks white's rook. 
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
2. Black to move


Clearly, it's easy to be verbose about any given tactical position. Instead of trying to be comprehensive, I'll try to simply highlight one or two examples of any given element, as I might do when solving these myself.

Favorable geometry?
Black has a knight one move away from check--the queen guards it but keep an eye on it!
Black's queen is aligned with a rook, a simple pawn capture with dxc3 opens up that line which could be good or dangerous.

Trapped Pieces?
It looks like white's knights have escape squares. 
His rooks have a fair amount of freedom to move.
White's bishop is hemmed in quite a bit, but even if I found a way to scare it, it can always just take my knight on f4. Bishops are trapped nicely with pawns surrounding them! Here, white could simply trade out if, say, I had a pawn ready to come into h4.
What about the queen?? Hmmmmm... Queens are good to trap. As you check white's queen's movement, you will see black has a lot of the squares covered! 

Undefended and underdefended pieces?
You may already have the answer but I'll continue for illustrative purposes. White's knight on c4 is a classic example of an underdefended piece. Yes it is defended by the a3 knight, but is attacked exactly once by black's bishop. Same number of defenders as attackers = underdefended piece! This piece tension is prime time for tactics simply because one side is almost always going to re-capture (unless they find an intermezzo!!!) and you know with what piece they will use, so the calculation is far easier. Maybe there's a removing the defender idea, or maybe the piece guarding the other piece has other duties, thus making it overworked! In this case, Bxc4, Nxc4 doesn't result in a lot but wasn't that simple to check? 
White's bishop and rooks aren't being attacked at all, and they have sufficient defenders so that's about it for this section.

Yes, the queen is trapped! You may have had to try out all the possible ways to attack it or perhaps it's a bishop sacrifice...anyway, if you found out that the queen was oddly placed with few escape squares, you'll eventually see the move. 

Answer: pawn to g4 attacks the queen with no safe squares.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
3. Black to move


Favorable geometry?
Immediately, you'll want to see that white's king and queen are on the same diagonal. This is a perfect example of favorable geometry. Hopefully you see black's move that takes advantage in one move!
White's rook is on the same rank as his king. As mentioned, it's hard to attack rooks that share ranks or files with bigger pieces and ditto with bishops on diagonals with bigger pieces. Make sure you understand why.

Trapped Pieces?
Nothing is really trapped for white. Wide open positions are less ideal for trapped pieces.

Undefended and underdefended pieces?
The rook on e1 jumps out to me as an undefended piece. And it can be hit in one move by the Queen. Qb4 could be something to look at if you otherwise didn't see the solution.
White's bishop on c4 is an underdefended piece as it has the same number of attackers as defenders. So, again, it's always worth it to see what would happen if you initiate a trade (keeping in mind the possibility that your opponent is not required to re-take). Bxc4, bxc4 and then Qxc4 wins a pawn but A) your opponent might not care about that pawn, B) your king is very open so white might simply play some devastating intermezzos, and C) black has a much stronger move anyway that you probably spotted. Find a seemingly good move? Look for a better one.

Answer: Bc6 pinning and winning the queen. White has no intermezzo tricks with the rook.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
4. Black to move


Favorable geometry?
White's bishop and king are on the same rank.
Blacks' queen and rook are lined up; that can be powerful battery. Too bad it's not currently pointing at anything. Perhaps you spot a queen trade on e2 because then Rxe2 and I can play Rxe2 pinning the bishop. Not much followup though. (see how I used some favorable geometries to start some quick calculating?)
Black's bishop is on the same diagonal as white's queen; that's a definite strong tactical opportunity. You'll want to see that the f5 pawn is in a relative pin.

Trapped Pieces?
White's queen could potentially be trapped. Notice that black's pawns on b5, c5, and g5 are shutting down six of the eight squares on the 4th rank! That's a lot of key escape squares if I could find a way to attack the queen.
White's rook on f3 doesn't have a ton of options, but it's also attacking my queen!!! What about the other rook....  

Undefended and underdefended pieces?
Oh, that other rook is totally undefended. I can't even bother to look at the other pieces. I see a tricky queen move that actually traps it! See how an undefended piece turned into a trapped piece!

A note on "checks and captures"
The idea to always look at checks and captures is a good one. You'll want to get very fast at visualizing a board after a series of captures. Tactics are great for visualization practice. But going over all possible captures can also be a time-waster to avoid. For example in the above position, you might consider sacrificing black's queen with Qxf3 (hey, Queen sacs are common in tactics, right?) thinking you can win it back later. But Qxf3 leaves a lot of options for white to re-capture. You don't want to get bogged down with working through all the possible re-captures unless you see nothing else. So a shortcut I use a lot is when I see a possible temporary sac like Qxf3 but I also see three possible re-takes, it's probably not going to be worth my time in a game to check all the responses. Therefore I often nix ideas like that early on. If you're truly perplexed or you really need to double check, by all means look at all the options. Just know you might have to be practical during a real game!

Answer: Qc1

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
5. Black to move


Favorable geometry?
Black's queen is on a diagonal with white's king, pinning white's e3 pawn. Very important! 
Black's knight is one move away from attacking white's queen on two different squares.
Black's rook is on the same line as white's bishop (discoveries?).

Trapped Pieces?
Looks like white has sufficient escape squares for their pieces.

Undefended and underdefended pieces?
Rook on c1 is only defended once but no black piece is attacking it. So it's not quite ready for tactics. Rc8 could attack it but you can run some visualization to see that that doesn't really work.
White's bishop on d3 is defended once, but only by the queen. Heavy pieces make for poor defenders as they can be overworked or easily scared away. Hey! Remember that we noted black's rook is on the same line as the poorly defended bishop! Hmmm....And black's knight is one move away from attacking the queen which is the sole defender of the bishop. Moving the knight also opens up the rook's attack on the bishop (favorable geometry)! Oh this is looking juicy! And the e3 pawn is pinned so black has Nf4 as a move! That attacks the queen and puts two attackers on the poorly defended bishop!

This example is a great display of how tactical elements can come together!

Answer: Nf4
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Checks and Captures
I didn't include these in the "elements" list but they are vital to solving tactics. Calculation is necessary and checks and captures are the things to calculate first. Sometimes calculation can spark ideas if looking at the 3 elements doesn't present many ideas. Sometimes observing the elements can lead to calculation and you spot the idea quickly! 

An example of the first is when you see a piece attacking another piece so you do a quick calculation and you see that the defender of that piece has to re-capture and that leaves another piece undefended! So quick calculation pointed you towards a removing the defender tactic because of underdefended pieces!

An example of the second situation might be that you see a queen and rook in a position ready to be forked by your knight but the forking square is covered. Ohhh, but then you see that the only piece defending that square is being attacked so you can trade it off and your fork works! You spotted favorable geometry here then some calculation pointed you towards an overworked piece!


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Conclusion
Clearly not every position will be tactical and you'll have to work on your awareness to know when a position might become sharp. From there, hopefully this lesson can help you spot the weaknesses prone to combinations! Do you have to go through a checklist of all undefended and underdefended pieces, trapped pieces, favorable geometry, every single capture and on and on? Of course not. You work on these tactical problems so you develop your own method and you develop intuition on what the position might call for. You might immediately see back-rank issues and you calculated mate in 2 so clearly you won't care that their queen is undefended or you have favorable geometry with a bishop. BFD.

Being aware of some of these common elements and pointing them out yourself will certainly help you in building your intuition! 

Moreover, you'll start to gather broad takeaways that are kind of like tactical truths. For instance, knights and bishop trades are very common in removing the defender tactics, a bishop or rook is really good at reducing escape squares for a queen, a knight that is one move away from checking a king or queen is very strong, a few pawns on the same rank or diagonal are extremely efficient at shutting down escape squares for a piece, a queen and rook on the same diagonal can be prone to a skewer or pin just as a queen and bishop on the same rank/file can be, major pieces make poor sole defenders of a piece since they can be scared away easily and/or overworked...

Some of those were even discovered in the examples in this post! These tactical truths are too numerous to list out. The point is that studying tactical positions can highlight the power of the pieces and how they work together and you'll start ingraining these truths into your chess vision.

A final FINAL note - Take your time with tactics! 
See how some of these example problems were pretty simple but I still took the time to show other things going on? It's great practice to do this. Yes it feels good to find the queen pin in a split-second in example three but it can never hurt to double-check anything else. Remember in the fourth problem, I noted that the f5 pawn was pinned to the queen? This didn't play a part in the rook trap, but it is important practice to notice these things when you look at a position. In a real game, you'd want to be aware of pinned pieces and pawns all the time! Pointing them out in tactics problems will help to train that muscle even if they have nothing to do with the problem. 

Training tactics can sometimes turn into a casino game where you try to guess the move ASAP so you get the reward of a ding sound or +7 tactics ratings points or whatever. Take the time to really check all possible moves and counterplay you see and go for 100% accuracy. A good tactics book is ideal because you are more forced to check other lines and all replies by your opponent. If you're not careful, online trainers can turn into addicting games where you start moving too fast without fully thinking the combination through. The online trainers are great, just be wary of moving too fast!

Friday, March 8, 2019

Don't try to be a Perfectionist

I found a great lesson within IM Barthy's latest video, right after he takes a swig of the sweet, sweet nectar that is iced coffee:

Video - Timestamped for your pleasure

Obviously, when he's looking for that perfect move, it's likely going to be a better move than we find due to his IM skills but I think his point stands. A few weeks ago I was getting into technically winning positions but I had a minute or two on my clock for the endgame. Not fun. It's important to take your time, but even more important is to know when to really calculate and find that critical move and when it's okay to just play solidly and/or find a "good enough" move. This is especially true at lower levels where a move that loses a few centipawns isn't really going to be punished very often. *GASP* Don't waste your time trying to save those centipawns 
Work on recognizing when it's not in your best interest to find the best move when the second, third, or even the fourth best move will be nearly as good. 

+0.6 versus +0.3??
I think the age of stockfish has messed some of us up. We now know there is a number one engine move in every position and we're on a quest to find it, right? One might think, 
"The eval is currently at +0.6 I'm guessing. If I find the perfect move, it'll stay at +0.6! But if I play the third best move, it's gonna drop to +0.3!!! Oh nooooo! So much pressure!" 
In reality, you know that shit doesn't matter to us 1700s. This isn't the world championship. Sometimes, focusing on engine evaluations can tilt our thinking so we're looking for that perfect move. In certain positions, a move that results in the loss of a few centipawns does not matter. Work on recognizing those positions and not wasting away precious minutes.

In general, in a tactical/critical position, a given single decision could change the fate of the game. But in a non-tactical position, especially opening situations where you need to follow some basic principles like developing or safeguarding your king, it probably won't matter too much so you should pick a move and go with it. Hopefully your chess instincts will protect you! If not, you'll learn from the mistakes and the goal is to build those instincts so you know when it's time to think!

Overall, I think I had been struggling with being paranoid about the perfect moves in the opening especially. I had been freaked out about dropping a pawn so I'd check all kinds of trades, re-captures and things like that and we're only 5 moves in. I'd be wasting minutes trying to figure out my 6th move and in a lot of positions I found myself in, that was a waste of time.

How do I know when to be a perfectionist?
These are the instincts John was talking about. Over time you'll develop instincts on what is a tactical position and what is a position that requires strategy or a simple "good enough" move. The best way to develop those instincts is to analyze your game without an engine right after it ends. All your thoughts and ideas for each move will be fresh and you can remember, for example:
"Move 4 I was considering playing e3 or getting my dark-squared bishop out first." 
With analysis you might see that both moves are pretty much equal, they just go into slightly different structures and types of games. But if you spent 120 seconds on this move, you will takeaway that you found two solid moves and you may have wasted time deciding between two great moves.

That is a simple example but it holds true. Analyze all of your games and as you do, try to recall the moments you had multiple moves in mind. Try to form connections between the moves you were considering, whether there was truly a large difference between the two, and how much time you took. Doing this enough may help you determine more quickly what a critical position is and what isn't.

Wednesday, March 6, 2019

Crushing Defeats

Chess can be a motherfucker. You're bound to have games that make you feel crappy. 

My most recent was a few days ago. I won't go into the details of the game but it ended with a pawn race in which I queened first so I could deliver checks before my opponent could queen. I could find a thousand checks but they had one pawn that was one square from promotion and their king was next to it. Smelled like a perp to me. I checked a few times and while I was trying to find more useful checks, my opponent offered a draw. I had nine seconds on my clock and so I accepted it. 

Of course, I had a win. :(

I just had to get his king to blockade his own queening square and then march my king over. It's so simple in retrospect but in the moment, all I could see was a few pointless checks I could give and it'd end in a perpetual. So I took the draw and found the mate a minute later in analysis.

I was upset about it. I think I'm pretty good about getting over things like that thankfully but it still sucked. I'm lucky it ended in a draw!

Here we are a few days later though. I'm not upset, I've got those couple of ratings points back (only took one game), and I gained a valuable lesson: I know what a winning position looks when I have a queen and my opponent has an advanced pawn. I know the method to win it. I didn't know it before. There are a thousand endgame situations like that that the beginner doesn't know what to do. I sure didn't. But now I do. Now I can have 0.2 seconds on my clock in that position and I'll know to check the king again and again until I see the plan.

These takeaway lessons are extremely beneficial to your attitude towards chess improvement and your general happiness. 

My current rating is more or less where it would have been had I won that game instead of a draw. The value of mini lessons like this far outweigh a few fake internet chess points.

Tuesday, March 5, 2019

I know the rules. How do I get better?

The most common question on /r/chess.

Sure, you can just play 5+0 games and try to figure out some things or play a trappy opening (Qh5!) but sooner or later you're going to have to actively learn and practice certain things if you want to improve and play good chess.

Here's a list of steps I'd recommend following:

1. Learn the rules. Go to lichess and in the LEARN tab, do all the stuff in there. These things will teach you the rules and fundamental patterns and tactics in a fun way. It's a good interactive first step into chess, even if you know how to play the game.

2. Play games so you see the rules in action and you get exposed to a lot of common (if bad) ideas. Baptism by fire.

3. Watch youtube streamers so you learn good ideas and how masters think about the vast complications in a chess game. I recommend John Bartholomew. Actively listen to what he's saying. His and Jerry's (ChessNetwork) videos along with some STLCC videos are where I learned a lot of stuff. Even if you just hear a term like opposition or outpost that's a good start. Then if it intrigues you, look up videos or other sources on that. Be active in your learning.

4. Practice Tactics. By now you should understand most of the basic tactical ideas. If not, find a good source (Yasser's Winning Chess Tactics is a great start) that defines them and shows examples.

5. Study Tactics hard. Find a good tactics app/book and line out a schedule to practice tactics almost daily.

6. Seriously, tactics. Do a lot of them. After you are good enough to not blunder away pieces and pawns, tactics will decide 90% of your games until you're at Expert level.

7. Play 15+ minute long games against real people on lichess or chess.com. Play principled opening moves, be paranoid hanging pieces, and try searching for tactics all the time. Analyze every game afterwards.

8. Continue being active about getting better. Search for weak spots in your skills. Learn something from every game. Practice simple endgames against stockfish. Get one opening you play as white and just play solid as black. Study tactics.

Conclusion
There are a million resources for every level of chess. As long as you are excited and willing to learn, you'll find them and if you seriously want to get better you will. And it will be painful. Because chess is hard.

An Experiment in Classifying Games

I did this with a run of twenty games a few weeks ago and it was kind of interesting and helpful to see where I most need to study. I know lichess has some game "insights" tools but I like doing stuff hands-on as well.

Why was the game lost???
I want to classify my last 50 games according to what factors I think decided the game. This could be:
TACTICS - From both sides! Were tactics played out that created a significant imbalance? Or were significant tactics missed?
STRATEGY - A game with few exchanges, lots of slow moves and maneuvers in the opening and middlegame
ENDGAME - Did the game come down to an ending with fewer pieces on the board?
PERSONAL BLUNDER - Did I f*** up in a major way and not see something that changed the course of the game?

Many games will be hard to classify but I will put myself into the brain of the losing side and try to find the most annoying reason/s the game was lost. Obviously this will be pretty subjective and most games will probably be a combination of factors so I'll use a points system. 

Example:
A game was equal through the opening, then my opponent blundered and missed a queen-rook skewer so I went up the exchange then we quickly and easily simplified down and I had a bishop and passed pawn that I was going to promote when opponent resigned. 
TACTICS: 1
STRATEGY: 0
ENDGAME: 1
PERSONAL BLUNDER: 0

There was a struggle of positioning pieces with only one pawn trade and one minor piece trade through the first 20 moves, then I slowly got choked out and misplayed a rook and pawn endgame and resigned.
TACTICS: 0
STRATEGY: 1
ENDGAME: 1
PERSONAL BLUNDER: 1

There were maybe some strategic moves and a complicated tactic that let my opponent go up a pawn then we went to a knight and bishop vs knight and bishop endgame wherein they had a passed pawn. I had to play defensively and eventually let their knight in to get another pawn and I couldn't maintain my defenses.
TACTICS: 1
STRATEGY: 1
ENDGAME: 1
PERSONAL BLUNDER: 0

Solid opening but no exchanges, lots of strategic slow moves by both sides then I struggled to find a play and was under SOME time pressure and eventually straight up blundered a bishop when I moved it to a square I thought was protected.
TACTICS: 0
STRATEGY: 1
ENDGAME: 0
PERSONAL BLUNDER: 1
______________________

So from this collection of example games, my totals are:
TACTICS: 2
STRATEGY: 3
ENDGAME: 3
PERSONAL BLUNDER: 2

From this I should have a solid plan on what to focus on!

Monday, March 4, 2019

Awesome Online Resources

John Bartholomew
John Bartholomew's YouTube Page was my most used online streaming resource when I was a true beginner. He is such a clear teacher and has a great attitude. I strongly recommend his Chess Fundamentals series to start. I've watched those videos at least a few times.Climbing the Rating Ladder and Chess Cognition are two more good series.

Openings
The chess openings table from reddit
This site is very useful for building and studying a repertoire
(Here's the reddit post from the creator)

Strategy
Here are some videos recommended from reddit:
Evaluating Positions and Creating Plans
Trading Pieces and Pawns
Trading - When does it benefit you?
Identifying and controlling key squares

Endgames
http://simplifychess.com/chess/endgame-problems.html
Fun checkmate-in-one site

Others
haven't used these so I need to check out what they are...
https://www.checkmatechamp.net/

My plan for this week

I've kinda a busy week coming up but I should be free tonight for some chess. I should be able to play a classical game and then do some tactics. 

Tactics Trainin'
My short-term goal: In my 1200-1400 problem set, I have 133 problems I'm "learning" so I should be able to get to 150 or 160 on that tonight and then to 200 by my next session. I can continue reviewing the 1000-1200 as well as the 1200-1400 

Longer term: Build a 1400-1600 set and get 200 problems in it. Review the 10-1200 and 12-1400 ranged sets. Continually review all problem sets: every night open ChessTempo and go through the "Scheduled" problems for each set until I can do them all with ease.

Book Learnin'
Whatchu readin' fer? My short-term goal is to start and finish Capablanca's Chess Fundamentals with note-taking. I skimmed through it at work and it looks like it requires a chessboard with playing through the moves but it shouldn't take me too long.

My longer-term goal is Amateur's Mind. Develop a plan for Silman's Complete Endgame Course as well.

Game Playin'
Get 4 more classical games under my belt! I also want to go over my last 20 or 30 games and classify them (see blog post on that!)

Sunday, March 3, 2019

Should I know openings?

No.

Just kidding.

Well.....

Know the principles. Play one opening all the time as white and play solidly as black. 

For example, I play QGD which is practically a system whereby I answer 1. ...d5 with c4 and Nc3 then from there it's a combination of either bringing my dark-squared bishop out first or just playing e3 and Nf3. I keep it easy. Of course, always react to what your opponent might be doing in case they play sub-optimally. Get yourself a small "system" like this where you know the first few moves you like to play as white and how opponents typically respond.

As black I just play solidly. I get a pawn or two fighting in the center, get at least three minors out and castle. That's it! I'm sure that's good enough for me to get to 90% classical lichess.

That's the quickest way to get a solid game started. Of course you'll want to start branching out with white at some point, otherwise you'll miss a lot. For example, I don't play 1. e4 so I never face the sicilian. That's something I'll want to start doing, perhaps after I reach my classical goal. It'll be interesting to track my progress with the change to 1. e4.

I think the goal for advanced beginners in the opening is to safely accomplish the opening principles without dropping material or having more than a +/- 1.0 engine evaluation. If you can do that in nine games out of ten you're doing well.

Familiarity with the opening names
I wouldn't concern myself with memorizing ten different openings twenty lines deep, but I do want to start familiarizing myself with names of the common openings.

When I watch a streamer, they might say, "We're going into the dutch here" or, "This is the scotch game." I have some ideas on a distinguishing move in openings they might play (for example, I know Dutch means an early f5 from black but that's pretty much it!) but I always thought it'd be nice to identify them more confidently. This reddit post provided a pretty good way to study the openings on a surface level:

https://www.reddit.com/r/chess/comments/aw7jcw/chess_openings_updated/

Almost like a "name that tune" game, I'd like to be able to see the first four or fives moves from anything in this table and be able to identify the name of the opening. I'm not going to study all of them, but I think some brief familiarity can go a long way with them.

Here's the .jpg of the chart.

You could do this any number of ways. Maybe you break it up with the 1. e4 e5 lines and memorize them. Cover up the common name of the opening as you go down the line guessing the names. Reminds me of memorizing things 10 minutes before a college exam :/ but it's something! After this you could just look at the names of the openings from the chart, then open up the analysis board in lichess and try to play out the moves that make up that opening. The analysis board will label the opening for you so you got the moves correct!

Play Correspondence to Learn to Play Solidly
Correspondence is a great way to learn chess in general. I found a great way to check my opening ideas with it too. I usually have correspondence games ongoing on my phone and there's a simple way to check the analysis board in any given position. From that you can access an opening book that shows you the most common moves from GM games! I don't consult it right away in the opening but what I do is look at the position and come up with my candidate moves and I sometimes rank them. Then I check with the opening book to see if my move was one of the top-played moves. This can be an invaluable way to see how you're doing with opening principles, prophylaxis moves, pawn breaks et cetera without blindly memorizing lines. 

My progress after a few days

The blog just began but I'm doing really well lately. I'm not playing perfect chess but I'm winning, including some of my highest-rated wins ever. Confidence is high and I feel like I'm pretty much at the right skill-level to reach the 90% in the lichess classical pool. I should remember that my confidence was much less high a few weeks ago. Chess is a motherfucker and you can get down on yourself very easily. I guarantee that I could play three games right now, lose them all, and probably think this blog is stupid and I wasted so much time on tactics this winter. 
It's okay to feel bad about your chess progress. It's okay to feel good about your chess progress. One is negative and one is positive but the absolute value of the feelings are the same -- they both show that you care about improving.
Here's my overall progress graph for classical. At times it feels good to see this, but it also makes me think I need to be playing so much more so it eventually evens out because I still don't know where my first "plateau" is.



I'm at 176 games as of today. It's snowing so I could play 4 more classical games today to get to 180 total games. I had a good start this morning so I feel good. If I can win at least 3 of 5 then I'll feel okay and I can see my progress after that.

My Tactics Training Schedule

It seems like my training schedule is a constant work in progress. It's a balance of how much time to spend on tactics, gameplay, analysis, book reading, and watching streams while still having a life. After working through the first section of The Woodpecker Method, I started to really like the idea of spaced repetition. From that I bought a ChessTempo membership. It's $4 per month so it's completely worth it for me.

My ChessTempo Plan
I started a custom set of problems rated 1000-1200 and set it to spaced repetition. The plan was to build a set of 200 of these problems and review them every day or every few days. Once I got to 200, I would start a custom set of problems rated 1200-1400 and solve 200 problems in it, reviewing them as well as the 1000-1200 set periodically. From there I would move to 1400-1600 and evaluate the difficulty of those. Spaced repetition works best for somewhat easy puzzles that don't require a lot of grinding calculation so if the 1400-1600 rated problems are too hard, I'll stop my spaced repetition there.

I'm not sure on the best schedule for all of these so it's a bit haphazard. Currently I have the 200 problems in the 1000-1200 set completed and I open them for review periodically. Usually when I open that set up, there are anywhere from 30-50 problems to review. When I'm done reviewing them, I'll open the 1200-1400 set and add to it. 

Make it Your Own
A takeaway here is to customize your training schedule! You might want to start with checkmate in one puzzles, or focus on tactical motifs and do 100 fork puzzles, then 100 discovery puzzles, and on and on. I chose general problems and focused on rating ranges. At some point I'll also filter through all my attempted problems on ChessTempo and find the tactical motifs I struggle with most. I've read that there is a way to do this and I think it's brilliant.

Try different things until you stumble on something you can do day after day. I started my current tactics addiction by deciding I'd do 500 lichess tactics puzzles over and over until I have them all memorized. I made a big google sheet and saved every URL of a puzzle as I attempted them. I'd do bundles of 25 and re-do them later that night, then periodically re-visit them. After posting my idea to reddit, I decided this was a bit silly but I already had 75 or 100 puzzle URLs accumulated so I altered it to 200. I ended up memorizing them all and I was able to do the 200 puzzles in about an hour one day. Granted, this may not have helped me with much more besides memorizing 200 exact lichess puzzles but it was something!

The point is to start with anything and you'll quickly find out how you best learn. I got addicted to tracking the URLs, timing myself, graphing improvement, scheduling when I'd review old puzzles, and when I'd attempt the full 200. From there I was able to get The Woodpecker Method which I strongly recommend. I completed the 222 easy problems at the beginning of the book (with yet another spreadsheet to hold me accountable and help me keep track of progress) but the intermediate problems were a tad more difficult and I was slower so I moved to ChessTempo from there.

Saturday, March 2, 2019

How to Solve Tactics

I'm not going to get into the reasons why you should study tactics if you're around my level. I've read enough to convince myself but here's one of the first sources I read that did the job:

http://www.masschess.org/Chess_Horizons/Articles/2001-01_Sample_400_Points_Part_1.pdf
http://www.masschess.org/Chess_Horizons/Articles/2001-04_Sample_400_Points_Part_2.pdf

Strategy vs Tactics
Long-term strategic moves are very hard for the beginner to understand (something I need to start working on!) but tactics can be seen pretty much immediately because of the forcing nature of the replies. Here's an example of explaining a strategic move versus a tactical move:

STRATEGIC: You'll want your rook on b8 because the pawn structure you developed is begging for a minority attack. First you'll need to prep a knight maneuver and before that you need the rook on b8. After the minority attack is initiated, the b-file will likely be opened in the middlegame and the b8 rook will come alive!

TACTICAL: You take here, your opponent has to take back otherwise they're losing a bishop, then when he takes back, you can take on e5 which is also a fork and you'll win you two pawns!

A Guide to Solve Tactics
There often aren't guidelines provided to a beginner on what to look for when doing tactics training. "Look for checks and captures" is good advice to start but it doesn't apply to a whole lot of puzzles. I got some helpful advice from a redditor who told me a "structured approach" to tactical problems is extremely helpful to familiarize yourself with what's going on in the position and figure out where on the board to attack.

Generally, any of three elements may be present in most tactics puzzles. Knowing what these are and being able to spot them quickly is a great head start in solving tactics. By "elements" I don't mean pins or forks, I am talking in broader terms.

The three elements:

1. Un(der)defended Pieces - Pieces with the same amount of attackers as defenders. The remedy: Either remove the guard [by some other tactical mechanism or by exchange] OR add a marginal attacker

2. Favorable Geometry - Important or undefended squares on the same diagonal or file, or on squares that can be forked by a knight or pawn. Remedy: pin/fork/skewer!

3. Trapped Pieces - Pieces on awkward squares or with little to no available mobility. Remedy: Attack it with a piece of lower value OR add a marginal attacker

For a tactic to work, typically there must be at least 2 of these elements present.

I will hopefully later add some screenshots describing the elements in more detail.

If you can take any tactics puzzle and list out the underdefended pieces, all instances of favorable geometry, and any trapped pieces, you will be well on your way to knowing where to start calculating. As you train tactics more and more, you'll start to find yourself spotting these elements very quickly and intuitively knowing which ones to start calculating. For calculating, it can be helpful to go through all checks, captures, and then threats with a priority of checking the highest value pieces first.

Take Your Time

The point of playing longer time controls is to give yourself time to analyze candidate moves and calculate if you think there is a tactic.

There are a shocking amount of players that don't do this in classical. They still blitz out their moves, almost as if they're trying to finish with more time on their clock than what they started.

I just wrapped up a game that wasn't incredibly complicated. There were some trades that turned into a pretty equal pawn endgame. Here's the final clock:



This was a 15 + 15 game with 45 moves, yet my opponent gained time. Good for him/her! Maybe they'll use that 1:49 in the next game. Notice that even though I called it a pretty simple game, I still took my time.

My opponent's three longest thinks:

     80s
     57s
     55s

Mine:

     147s
     131s
     98s

It can be difficult to know when to sit for a few minutes and try to find a tactic or the best defense. That in itself is a decision to make! You shouldn't be blitzing out your moves as if you have GM-like intuition, but you can't get into time trouble by move 15 either! 

Balancing time is a skill to work on. Analyze how often you get into time trouble and how often you finish with more time than your opponent. Adjust your time-use accordingly. 

You might experience times when you have a 3-move combination worked out in your head so you play the first move in the sequence and then your opponent follows suit with what you had assumed they'd play. Even in these situations, it's okay to take 5 seconds to make sure your calculation is correct! It can be tempting to see an awesome combination and you want to blitz out the moves to intimidate your opponent but nothing is worse than having your calculation wrong and missing a simple in-between move in the middle of your combination. Yes that is a calculation error you'd want to work on, but you could also have avoided some trouble by taking slightly more time for every move!

Use your time to double-check tactical calculations, captures, even basic opening moves that you think you've seen before. 

The general takeaway is that in the lower-rated games, you will win a lot of games by sheer patience and simply trying harder than your opponent. Don't let someone's fast play throw you off. Play the best move you can find.

Friday, March 1, 2019

How I analyze my games

One of the most oft-repeated pieces of advice on /r/chess is to analyze your games. I try to do this for just about every classical game I play. I took inspiration from John Bartholomew's Standard Chess videos in which his analysis sometimes takes longer than the game! I don't go that far very often but I do spend anywhere from 10-30 minutes on my post-mortems.

After analyzing in a variety of ways, this is what I've settled on. It's not perfect but it's better than speeding through the game and letting the engine show me where I fucked up then loading up another game without learning any lessons. Everybody likes laughing at those crazy spikes in the analysis graph though.

My Method
My method takes advantage of the Notes tool in lichess since it persists over to the analysis board so you can check your ideas there with an engine after putting your own thoughts down first! I'm still not good enough to notice a lot of stuff on my first pass through the game but I try to find at least one thing I missed or could have done better. 

This is a quick guide on how I do it, so you can try to use it as a way to customize for yourself!  
  1. Game ends. I usually feel like getting up for a drink to just get away and stretch for a minute. Or to quietly sigh "what the fuck..." after I fudge an endgame.
  2. Get back to computer and immediately go to the beginning of the game (UP arrow on lichess if using desktop).
  3. I click over to the "Notes" tab where the chat window is. These are private notes that persist to the analysis window. Very handy!
  4. I sometimes write a quick one-sentence summary of the game or a main takeaway to start. Example: "Weird game; never seen the opening; thought I had a bishop trap tactic; need to work on rook endgames!"
  5. I arrow through the moves to re-familiarize myself with everything, see if I can quickly spot something. I might make another quick note or two.
  6. Then I go back through again only I make more specific notes for a lot of the moves, saying if something was better, if I thought I saw something, if I see now that I misplayed something, if I thought an opponent's move was good or bad, where a turning point was, etc. These ideas are fresh in your mind since your game just ended 5 minutes ago so what better time to do it than now! You'll remember your thought processes during the game and you can even analyze THAT during this time! Example: "Why did I not see that his bishop was trapped? I remember honing in on that for three moves. I gave up when I thought he had an escape square but he didn't! Need to work on staying focused on a plan!"
  7. After I'm satisfied I have some good notes from my personal non-engine analysis, I click over to the analysis window. Your notes should remain!
  8. I might turn the engine eval on ('L' button on lichess desktop) but not the suggested moves ('A' button) yet! I go through again, and follow along with my notes, possibly playing out ideas on the analysis board so I can see any lines I suggested actually played out on the board to check my visualization. I can keep an eye on the evaluation too and see if something isn't as good or better than I thought.
  9. Also anytime I see the eval take a big (greater than +/- 1.0 change) swing, I take my time and see if I missed a tactic that I didn't notice in my notes. If I can't, I might turn the suggested move on and see the idea, then turn it back off.
  10. I go through the whole game this way, and if I feel like adding new notes, I type them in CAPS LOCK so I know it's something I saw post-personal-analysis, i.e. with engine assistance.
  11. Afterwards, if you want, you can try the "learn from my mistakes" feature or check out the engine analysis graph for fun.
This is a simple way for me to analyze since I don't have to open any other software or get out any journals. I think this is far better than immediately going to the analysis page and clicking on the engine, generating a graph, and only looking at the big spikes like I used to do.

Things to Come

Here are some things to come. This can serve as a preview but it will also help to keep track of some ideas I'd like to post about. 

These are the subjects I want to cover in the next few weeks:
  • How I analyze my games (always have a "takeaway" lesson)
  • An experiment in classifying my games (was it primarily decided by Tactics, Strategy, Endgame, Blunder, etc)
  • How I train tactics (finding a routine and how to approach tactical problems)
  • Familiarizing myself with chess openings (the Chess Openings Tree image)
  • Developing an endgame training plan
And aside from that, a few things I want to have ongoing coverage for:
  • Any important milestone I've reached or lesson I learned
  • Game analysis that I found instructive
  • Notes on the current book I'm working through
  • Advice on customizing improvement plans
  • The psychology behind chess improvement as an adult with a life
  • Updates on my goals progress

First!

A blog about chess improvement for the "advanced beginner" chess player! In talking about my own goals and improvement plans, I hope to help others near my skill level. Off we go. I'll start with where I stand and where I want to go.

I have accounts at the two main chess sites but I spend most of my time on lichess.org. Here are my starting numbers from that site:

     BLITZ: 1320 | 41.8% (152 games)
     RAPID: 1478 | 56.2% (111 games)
     CLASSICAL: 1683 | 83.0% (170 games)
     CORRESPONDENCE: 1805 | N/A% (83 games)

CURRENT GOAL: Increase my classical lichess rating to the 90th percentile


I chose to begin in classical for a few reasons:
  • Primarily, because it's recommended to newer players to improve by playing slow time controls. You have more time to calculate, visualize, and plan.
  • It's a smaller pool of players so it's easier to move up. Not many GMs or IMs are playing 45 minute games online :) 
  • Blitz can be infuriating and I rarely feel like I learn much. I learn so much more in a classical game because I know the moves I played were my best ideas. I can see in analysis why they worked or why they didn't.
  • My idea is Improve in Classical --> Improve in Rapid --> Improve in Blitz
I began taking tactics training more seriously a few months ago and have steadily been increasing my rating. My current win/loss/draw ratio in classical is W97 L69 D8 so I'm still winning a lot of my games. That is encouraging!

My plan to improve:

  • Play more games - I haven't played all that many classical games! I follow someone that's played nearly 10,000! I always felt that when my win rate is close to 50% that's when I will be at my first plateau. Since I'm still winning more than losing, I think I haven't hit my "real" rating.
  • Study tactics - Spaced repetition tactics training in ChessTempo.
  • Continue reading books - My games against better players this week have been getting slightly strategic in nature so I want to focus on that element and I have a few books that can help. 
So from that, here are my Short-Term Goals:
  • Play 30 more classical games to get to 200 total!
  • Continue my ChessTempo tactics training and make a post outlining my routine.
  • Work through Capablanca's Chess Fundamentals which appears to cover two things I need a lot of help on: endgame principles and general middlegame plans.
  • Work through Silman's The Amateur's Mind for more middlegame help.

My SECOND OTB Tournament Experience!

Allright, it's time for another tournament! Six months since my last one, no thanks to a certain variant of a certain virus which shall ...