Wednesday, June 17, 2020

"Seven" Circles of 1001

Introduction
One of Dan Heisman's list of recommended books is Bain's Chess Tactics for Students. In the note, he provides a guide for completing that book using a spaced repetition method (Edit: I now understand that it isn't really spaced repetition because, with that method, you typically increase the length of time between successful solves (and decrease review time for those problems you miss). My method reviews all problems regardless of accuracy and consistently decreases review time, thus being more like the woodpecker method). Here's my rough outline of that guide:

1) Set a limit of 5 minutes per problem the first time through the book. If you don't get the answer, look it up.
2) Each time through the book, cut the time in half.
3) Repeat going through the book faster and faster until you can get 85%+ within 10-15 seconds per problem.

It's some form of de la Maza's Seven Circles Method. 1001 Chess Exercises for Beginners is quite an easy book for me and that's the book I've chosen to start with. I'd already started working through the first part of the book multiple times when I came across Dan's list. The first half of the book encompasses 492 problems categorized by motif along with hints so it's pretty easy to find the right idea. So at the time of writing, I'd decided to wrap up the first half and then more diligently follow this Seven Circles Method for the later sections.

Here's my plan moving forward:

1) Complete the 492 problems with 95+% accuracy (completed 6/19).
2) Complete the other sections of the book in piecemeal fashion, doing small 150-200 problem sections at a time until I can complete them at a rate of ~15 seconds per problem with 95% accuracy.
3) Systematically review all problems.
4) Complete the entire book in one day with at least 85% accuracy.

The Four (Half-Assed) Circles through first 492 problems
I just completed this last weekend, June 19. What a crazy Friday night. For my records, here are the solutions I got incorrect: [removed to different section] That list will be helpful to review before I try the entire book! I finished with 477 correct out of 492, or 96.95% accuracy.


The REAL Seven Circles
I should note that the Seven Circles idea is not without controversy, probably due to some things I mention in the Reflections section below. I'm just going to ignore that and use it as a reason to continue to train tactics diligently. I tend to be better at finishing things if I keep metrics on my progress and the Seven Circles method is a format that allows me to do just that. My only other note is that the study routine requires going through 1000 chess exercises every cycle. As already explained, I'm breaking the second half of this book into smaller subsets, only to try the final 1001 exercises later on. Here is the breakdown for the second half of the book:

Mixed Motifs - White to Move
Problems 493-690 - 198 total 

Mixed Motifs - Black to Move
Problems 691-864 - 174 total 

81 Mate-in-3 problems
33 Mate-in-4 problems
23 Curiosities

I will begin with the 198 White to Move problems. As inspiration, I'm taking ideas from this blog and so I will take some statistics throughout my work. For each problem, I will start a timer, get my solution, and write it down along with how long it took me and whether it was correct. I'll compile and summarize numbers at the end.


Seven Circles for Mixed Motifs - White to Move
My goal is to complete the set with 95% accuracy at a rate of ~15 seconds per problem. I hope it doesn't take me seven cycles, but we shall see. Once I reach that milestone, I know it's time to move on to the next section.

Cycle 1 (completed 6/25)
   Number of days of study: 4
   Overall Time: 5h 11m (18669 seconds)
   Time per problem: 94 sec/problem
   Overall Accuracy: 87.88%

Cycle 2 (completed 6/29)
   Number of days of study: 2
   Overall Time: 2h 1m (7260 seconds)
   Time per problem: 36.7 sec/problem
   Overall Accuracy: 92.9%

Cycle 3 (completed 6/30):
   Number of days of study: 1
   Overall Time: 47m (2843 seconds)
   Time per problem: 14.3 sec/problem
   Overall Accuracy: 97.3%


Summary:
So after three cycles, I've reached my goal for the Mixed Motifs - White to Move section. As expected, my accuracy improved and I went faster each time. Here are some graphs to visually represent how quickly the time-to-solve metrics dropped after each cycle. To make them easier to read, I decided to segment the time metric into larger "chunks" of time.


So in the above graph, you can see the blue bars are my first cycle through the set of 198 problems. As mentioned, the problem set is relatively easy for me and I did a pretty good job of solving many of them in 0-30 seconds or 31-60 seconds. Granted some were incorrect but I decided not to display them in this graph since I was more concerned with showing how time-to-solve changed through the cycles. As expected, the blue bars are more evenly distributed throughout the time chunks but with the second cycle (orange bars) and third cycle (gray), I started to get a lot more confident and faster in my solving. The third cycle shows nearly all were solved within 1 minute.

Here's a graph of smaller 5- or 10-second chunks:


This shows a little bit more detail. Looking at cycle 1 first, you can now see how many took me over 60 seconds to solve. The second cycle shows more even distribution and by the third cycle, I was solving a lot more under five or ten seconds.

Here's the data:




The Rest of the Second Half (edited on July 24)

I did the same process on the other sections from the second half of the book (509 problems) but I'll forego any deeper analysis. Here's a quick summary of my time spent working on the second half:

  • June 22 to July 23 - I completed the second half in piecemeal fashion.
  • 19 sessions (days) of solving
  • 13 rest days
  • 1527 total tactics solved
  • 80.4 tactics solved per session


Reflections on the Second Half
I cannot say for sure if this is worth it.

:)

It's at least interesting to do and I encourage everyone to try it. It gives you a sense of mastery of tactics but I'd guess it is partly artificial. I sensed a feeling of "memorizing the book" on more than one occasion. To be fair, I certainly also noticed times where I was picking up on general patterns, my eye quickly jumping to the idea, and only needing a quick calculation check before I had the solution (the goal I think!).

If I recall correctly, in the introduction to The Woodpecker Method, the authors state that the reader should make it a point to go through ALL calculation no matter which cycle you're doing. I found that during my final cycles, because I was timing myself and I was aiming for the quickest solve that was possible, I would often get the idea and stop the clock after 1 second. I wasn't doing the full calculation. 

When I say I was "memorizing the book" I mean to say that there are some puzzles in this set of 198 (and in the larger set in the first half of the book I'd done previously) where I had simply made some mental shortcuts. I had been noticing small little details in the position, say an unusual king placement in relation to pieces, and I really quickly remember that puzzle in particular and I see the move instantly. No extra calculation required. Going through the positions the third cycle, an obvious example might be "Oh this is that one where the king is boxed in by two rooks and I have that simple queen fork." I may have just been remembering "king boxed in, so play the queen-fork" without checking for counter-play or other moves the opponent might have.

Another example is an endgame problem I remember taking me over four minutes to solve and I didn't get the solution right the first time. The solution was a crazy castle-queenside move that ended up forking two pieces. Since it was an endgame position, 0-0-0 is really off your radar. Granted it was a bit tricky, but the point is the first cycle through, I'd calculated and analyzed for nearly five minutes and had to write some answer down. Once I saw the real solution, the second and third cycles through, I got that answer in a matter of seconds. "Oh this is that dumb one with the long castle." Did I learn much from that? Did I hardwire in some master-level pattern recognition or automate some calculation techniques? I doubt it, at least as far as positions like that are concerned.

So that's a case against this method. How about some positivity?!

In this set, there is a king and pawn endgame position with locked kingside pawns but there is a possible breakthrough. When I first encountered the puzzle, I saw the pawn breakthrough idea (the only non-king move actually) so I calculated it but it took several minutes of checking pawn races and if black had other intermediate moves or tricks. By my second cycle through, I recognized the puzzle immediately and knew the answer was g3-g4. Again, the question is, "Upon my second, third, fourth cycles through this position, am I truly practicing pawn-race counting, checking intermediate moves, or am I just seeing that familiar locked-pawn configuration that I saw the previous cycle and I know without having to check anything that the solution is the only pawn move in the position: g3-g4?" I'd have to say in cases like this, I may be simply memorizing the solution, but is this okay? Maybe it is, at least for positions like this. Perhaps next time I have a similar locked pawn position in one of my games, I'm hopefully more tempted to immediately check what pawn breakthroughs I have--thanks to this training and seeing this pawn breakthrough many times over in the last few days. Granted I will still have to calculate and count, as I did in the first cycle through, but the hope is that I'll have a shortcut now to know what to look for.

And lastly, I think the biggest revelation is that, regardless of the pluses and minuses, at least I was doing many hours of tactics training per day. Sometimes it was legitimate full calculation during the first and second cycles, and other times it was simple memorization with only minor pattern recognition. But still......tactics? They say any time spent studying chess is good to some degree. Did it help to see a bunch of these very easy problems a second and third time and know the solution in a matter of seconds? To be determined I guess. All I know is that I just devoted an entire month of training in which two out of every three days I was solving an average of 80 tactics per session.

A final final reflection: It is really slow going, especially during the third cycle when you know the solution but you have to stop the clock, double-check the solution, write down the time, and then get the next position pulled up. That's the main reason I didn't continue the diligent time-keeping stats for the other sections of the book. :)


For Future Cycles

Another idea to do in the future is to try Ray Cheng's Practical Chess Exercises using this repetition method. With that much more challenging book, I think I will have to try the true "X number or problems per day" version of the 7 Circles method as it was intended whereby you pick a number of problems to do per day and stick with it for the first cycle, doubling that number for the next cycle. Say 10 problems per day for the first pass through, the next cycle through would be 20 problems per day, the next cycle is 40 problems per day, then 80, 150, 300 and then all 600 problems in a day. That is following the 7 circles exactly.


Other Information
For my records, here are problems to review before full attempt:
Incorrect problems in first 492: { 26 , 109 , 154 , 241 , 245 , 263 , 274 , 293 , 358 , 366 , 426 , 429 , 459 , 464 , 476 }.

Incorrect problems in "White to Move - Mixed Motifs": { 503 , 505 , 507 , 509, 511 , 521 , 522 , 523 , 525 , 526, 531 , 538 , 542 , 552 , 558 , 560 , 563 , 564 , 565 , 567 , 571 , 577 , 578 , 590 , 596, 602 , 609 , 613 , 619 , 624 , 639 , 640 , 644 , 651, 654 , 657 , 658 , 661 , 662 , 664 , 674 , 680 

Incorrect problems in "Black to Move - Mixed Motifs": { 745 , 750 , 759 , 767 , 774 , 777 , 778 , 783 , 785 , 794 , 806 , 807 , 809 , 817 , 831 , 856 , 863 }

Incorrect problems in Final Section: { 884 , 890 , 891 , 894 , 902 , 915 , 923 , 924 , 954 , 957 , 960 , 961 , 964 , 969 , 970 , 991 , 992 }

Friday, May 8, 2020

Black Repertoire against e4

After studying some Caro-Kann opening theory and seen how intuitive it is for my style, I've decided to build a dedicated repertoire. HangingPawns youtube channel was extremely helpful with assembling this. Here's a playlist.


Caro-Kann Defense - Mainline

1.  e4  c6 
2.  d4  d5

The most common third moves for white are:
         3. e5  (21.3k games)
         3. Nc3  (16.9k games)
         3. exd5  (13.3k games)
         3. Nd2  (10.1k games)
         3. f3  (1.7k games)

 I’ll cover each of these in order.


 * * *


Advanced
1.  e4  c6
2.  d4  d5
3.  e5  Bf5
4.  Nf3  e6
5.  Be2  Nd7

-You must avoid getting the LSB trapped in, so don’t play e6 too early. I’ve done it too many times and it’s uncomfortable. That’s why 3. ...Bf5 is played early.
-I’ve seen 4. f4 e6 5. g4??  and I missed it but 5. ...Qh4+ is winning. 6. Kd2 (Ke2 Bxg4+) Be4 7. Nf3 Qf2+ 8. Qe2 Qxf3
-If 4. Nc3 e6 and it’s equal. White can try the Van der Wiel Attack with 5. g4 Bg6 6.Nge2 (trying for Nf4) c5 seeking counter-play 7. h4 h5 8. Nf4 Bh7 9. Nxh5 cxd4 10. Nb5 Nc6 11. Nxd4. White has a misplaced knight and d5 is weak as are a5 diagonals to the white king.
-If 4. Bxd3, that’s fine because black usually wants to get rid of his LSB because it’s staring at nothing after Bf5. So black is okay to trade bishops after 4. Bd3 Bxd3 5. Qxd3 e6.
-The aggressive Tal Variation starts with 4. h4 h5 (...e6? 5. g4 and bishop is soon trapped) 5. c4 e6 6. Nc3 Ne7 7. Nge2 Nd7. Qb3 might come from white and Qb6 will make a queen trade which is common. The DSB is the problem piece for black in these lines usually. Look to trade it off.
-Another sideline is 4. c4 e6 5. Nc3 Ne7 6. Qb3 Qb6 7. c5 Qxb3 8. axb3. Black has a horrible DSB again and white is kinda prepping a minority attack on the queenside. c6 is weak for black.
-5. Be2 is clearly just to castle, black plays Nd2 to help with the ...c5 push
-If 5. Nc3? Nd7 and black might castle long.
-Wikipedia mentioned a popular game by Kann using his eponymous opening: 1.e4 c6 2.d4 d5 3.e5 Bf5 4.Bd3 Bxd3 5.Qxd3 e6 6.f4 c5 7.c3 Nc6 8.Nf3 Qb6 9.0-0 Nh6 10.b3 cxd4 11.cxd4 Nf5 12.Bb2 Rc8 13.a3 Ncxd4 14.Nxd4 Bc5 15.Rd1 Nxd4 16.Bxd4 Bxd4+ 17.Qxd4 Rc1 18.Kf2 Rxd1 19.Qxb6 axb6 20.Ke2 Rc1 21.Kd2 Rg1 22.g3 Kd7 23.a4 Rc8 24.b4 Rcc1 0-1
-And this: Nimzo vs Capa 1927 http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chessgame?gid=1007846
-This gives white the biggest advantage if played properly with a lot more space and piece activity. Black needs to play c5 in this opening to activate his pieces. After 4. Nf3 e6, black has the plan to later get c5 in and Nd7 and Ne7. It continues 5. Be2 Nd7 6. 0-0 Ne7 7. Nbd2 h6. It’s the “starting position of the Short Variation.” Black’s ideas playing Qc7, 0-0-0 and pawnstorming on the kingside. Black can also play solid and tuck the bishop on h7. Or after 8. Nb3 g5! to play aggressively. Also, a point of Ne7 could be, if ever the LSB was taken on f5, to re-take with knight and it’s a strong piece.
-After 3. ...Bf5 4. Nc3 e6 5. g4 Bg6 6. Nge2 (threat: Nf4) c5 7. h4 h5 (sacrificing a pawn. h6 is too passive) 8. Nf4 Bh7 9. Nxh5 cxd4 10. Nb5 Nc6. This is the starting position of this “old” way of playing the Advanced variation.
-A common theme in this Short Variation is to weaken defense of the e5 pawn by eventually playing ….c5, even playing Bg7 or f6 to hit it.


* * *


Classical
1.  e4  c6
2.  d4  d5
3.  Nc3  dxe4
4.  Nxe4  Bf5
5.  Ng3  Bg6
6.  h4  h6
7.  Nf3  Nd7

-If white doesn’t takej back on e4, black can probably play 4. ...Nf6 5. f3 b5! and black is better here.
-If 5. Nc5 e5! 6. Nxb7 Qb6 7. Nc5 Bxc5 8. dxc5 Qxc5 and black is way ahead in development.
-If 5. Qf3 e6
-Move 6, white has several options. Besides the mainline, white could play Nh3, Nf3, Bc4, N1e2.
-If 6. Nh3 (Flohr variation) you have to give up the bishop and develop, don’t try to save it. Play like this: 6. ...e6 7. Nf4 Bd6 8. h4 (c3 is actually best) (Nxg6 hxg6 and rook is open)  Qc7 9. Nxg6 (9. h5? Bxc2 10. Qxc2 Bxf4 winning a pawn) hxg6. Here black is hitting g3 twice, and the h4 pawn is a weakness. In this line, after 7. ...Bd6 white could play 8. Nh5 hitting g7 so 8. ...Bxh5 9. Nxh5 g6 10. Ng3 (Ng7 Kf8). Black has weakened dark squares for now but development is equal and both sides have things to play for.
-If 6. Nf3 e6 7. Bd3 c5! 8. c3 Nc6 9. Be3 cxd4 10. Nxd4 Nf6 and black has a great position and will castle long.
-If 6. N1e2 e6 and will probably transpose to Flohr
-If 6. Bc4 e6 7. c3 Bd6 8. Nh5 Bxh5 9. Qxh5 Nd7 Qe2 Ngf6 Nf3 and a nice normal caro pawn structure but you must stop the d5 push from white.
-If 6. Nf3 Nd7 and if 7. h4 comes it might translate to the variation provided.
-If 6. Be3 or Bd3???
-A rare 6th move from a note in chessgames.com: 6. f4! e6 is fine from black.
-6. ...h5 should not be played because it will always be weak. 7. Nf3 Nd7 8. Bd3 Bxd3 9. Qxd3 e6 10. Bf4 Qa5+ 11. c3 Ngf6 12. 0-0 Be7 13. Ng5 and black is losing here.
-7. ...Nf6? 8. Ne5 gives white lots of activity because Qb3 or Qf3 (with Nh5) are threats, or Bc4 and Qe2 as well.
-If 8. Ne5 Nxe5 9. dxe5 is good for black because you can trade queens white’s king is in the center without castling rights.
-There’s a good chance white will trade light-squared bishops with Bd3 at some point, like in the Spassky Variation which is also considered the mainline I think: 8. h5 Bh7 9. Bd3 Bxd3 10. Qxd3 e6 is the most common continuation. White says he’s better developed but is also weak on the kingside. White’s pawn on h5 looks like a good attacker but it can prove to be a weakness in an endgame.
-From this position after the Spassky Variation, black needs to develop. White will surely not castle kingside. The mainline follows 11. Bf4 Qa5+ 12. Bd2 Bb4 13. c3 Be7 14. c4 Qc7. And here it’s cool because black effectively played two moves (Be7 and Qc7) but forced white to play three weakening moves (c3, c4 and Bd2). Mainline continues 15. 0-0-0 Ngf6 16 Kb1 0-0. This is the starting position of the mainline—meaning this is the result of the best moves engine-wise and theory-wise. As far as white is concerned, the h5 pawn is over-extended, the knight on g3 is pretty useless and it will have to probably exchange off for black’s f6 knight, but then this activates black’s other knight to f6. White will also need to spend some moves to prepare a kingside pawn storm whereas black has b5 and a5 moves ready to go.
-White can also play 11. Be2 a5 is good for black and a4 coming and b5 coming.


 * * *


Exchange
1.  e4  c6
2.  d4  d5
3.  exd5  cxd5
4.  Bd3  Nc6
5.  c3  Nf6
6.  Bf4  Bg4
7.  Qb3  Qd7

-Very passive for white
-White’s fourth move is actually second most common among masters. The most common is the Panov Attack (see next section) which follows 4. c4 Nf6 5. Nc3 e6 6. Nf3 Bb4. It often leads to IQP positions, with white obtaining rapid development, a grip on e5, and kingside attacking chances to compensate for the long-term structural weakness of the pawn.
-4. Bd3 tries to capture control of a key diagonal
-If 4. Nf3 Nc6
-If 4. c3 it should probably transpose. BLack should try to get that key diagonal though, so he plays 4. ...Bf5 5. Bd3? Bxd3 6. Qxd3 e6 and black is fine, and the b5 square isn’t a problem like it can be. Instead, white should play 5. Qb3 Qd7 6. Nf3 Nc6 and it’s now a normal position that should transpose to the main exchange line with a slightly better bishop for black.
-If 4. Bf4 Bf5 and it’s kinda an improved london system for black since black has two central pawns to one.
-If 5. Nf3 Bg4
-7. ...Qd7 helps defend everything. It can follow 8. Nd2 e6 9. Ngf3 Bxf3. Black’s LSB is kinda a bad piece so it’s okay to trade it, and that knight going to e5 is a big threat, with white’s other knight coming to f3 to help defend it. So now if 10. Nxf3, Ne5 from white isn’t quite the same threat because black can just take it with his knight and things are neutralized. 10. ...Bd6 11. Bxd6 Qxd6 12. Qxd7? 0-0 and black should be able to re-gain the b2 pawn (I guess with Rb8?). Yeah he says black gets major initiative in the position with Rab8, Rfc8, Ne4 opening the position with black’s king in the center, etc. The starting position ends with 13. 0-0. Black has a plan to play a6 then b5 and b4. White’s only good break is f4-f5 so they might move their knight out and try for that.
-Wikipedia source says some of the strategic ideas in the Caro-Kann Exchange are analogous to the QGD-Exchange with colors reversed.
-In most exchange Caro-Kann positions, the main plan for black is usually to play g6 and Bg7 and Nf6. Black will have problems with checks on the a4-e8 diagonal.
-The Panov Attack, white is accepting an IQP but is disrupting black’s center.


* * *


Panov Botvinnik Attack
1.  e4  c6
2.  d4  d5
3.  exd5  cxd5
4.  c4  Nf6
5.  Nc3  e6
6.  Nf3  Bb4
7.  cxd5  Nxd5
8.  Bd2  Nc6
9.  Bd3  0-0
10.  0-0

-White strikes at black’s center immediately. White’s LSB diagonal and the Qa4+ are threats to black. Black is technically equalized after white’s fourth move but you need to know it.
-The most common 4th move from black is ...Nf6 but ...g6 and ...e6 are possible.
-5. h3 is possible to stop pieces coming to g4 but it’ll probably transpose to the mainline.
-5. Nf3 g6 6. Qb3 Bg7 7. cxd5 0-0 (Qxd5? 8. Bc4)
-5. ...e6 is the mainline and it seems passive but it lets black castle and the bishop shouldn’t be fianchetto’d in this line. Usually it wants to come to b4 to pin the knight.
-At the end of the variation, white has an IQP but it’s doing a lot but it could become a weakness. In the position, black doesn’t want to play ...Bxc3 because bxc3 reinforces. If black’s knight on d5 is ever taken, you can certainly take back with pawn and concede in the center, with both sides having an IQP, but you might want to try to take back with a knight. Like if immediately white plays Nxd5 black could try Ne7 in some positions, so that you can play Nd5 and blockade with a powerful piece. Not always possible though. White has much more active bishops in this position so black doesn’t have attacking prospects.
-A common continuation is 10. ...Be7 (knight isn’t pinned anymore so the bishop isn’t doing anything) 11. a3 Bf6 12. Qc2 g6 13. Bh6 Re8
-For black, a more active choice however is 5. ...Nc6 6. Bg5 Be6. If white takes on f6 you play exf6 and you have the bishop pair and better position. The reason 6. ...Be6 is possible is because white’s bishop is taking the g5 square where the knight would like to be to dislodge black’s LSB. Furthermore, white’s knight isn’t on f3 and so it cannot come to Ng5 to dislodge black’s bishop on d6. The line continues 7. a3 Qd7 8. Be2 Rd8 9. Bxf6 exf6 10. c5 Be7. White wants to push b4 and b5 and create a passed pawn on the queenside but black has a lot of initiative in the center, the bishop pair, and a safer king.


* * *


Modern  (transposes to classical)
1.  e4  c6
2.  d4  d5
3.  Nd2  dxe4
4.  Nxe4  Bf5

-As I play it, it transposes into the Classical variation.
-The Modern Variation is actually 4. ...Nd7, delaying the bishop move but I’m going for easy to remember repertoire so adding in another line when it’s not necessary is silly. Anyway, a cool mating trap in that line is: 4. ...Nd7 5. Qe2 Nf6? 6. Nd6#
-White has no other good fourth moves, but if they try something like 4. c3 Nf6 is good for black.
-4. Nb3? e6 and black is much better.


* * *


Fantasy/Tartakower
1.  e4  c6
2.  d4  d5
3.  f3  Qb6

-This is also called the Maroczy. With 3. f3 white is supporting the center with a pawn which is less common in the Caro-Kann. The line HangingPawns gives is 3. ...dxe4 4. fxe4 e5 5. Nf3 Bg4 6. Bc4 Nd7 7. c3 and this is the starting position.
-In this line, white’s e-h4 diagonal is very weak and there are always tactics to watch for.


* * *

Rare second moves from white

1. e4  c6
2. d4  is the most common second move (64k games), but white may make other moves:

          2. Nc3  (5.5k games)
          2. c4  (3.8k games)
          2. d3  (2.3k games)
          2. Nf3  (2.0k games)
          2. Bc4  (14 games! It’s not popular among masters but I’ll include it since I’ve seen it)

I’ll cover those more in depth right now, but the short answer is that black should play 2. ...d5 every time anyway! Also note that these often lead to transpositions to more mainline Caro-Kann formations. Nc3 is a move in the Classical, and c4 the Panov so when you see those, be prepared for transposing. Here’s an example of each of those lines in order of popularity:


* * *


Two Knights Variation
1.  e4  c6
2.  Nc3  d5
3.  Nf3  Bg4
4.  h3  Bxf3
5.  Qxf3  e6

-White may also switch around the two knight moves and it won’t matter.
-White will have rapid development of pieces.
-If 3. d4 dxe4 4. Nxe4 Bf5 which transposes into the classical variation.
-If 3. Qf3, black can try to play for tempo on the queen: 3. ...dxe4 4. Nxe4 (Qxe4 Nf6) Nf6 5. Nxf6 exf6 6. Bc4 Nd7 (threatening Ne5)
-If 4. Be2 e6
-If 5. gxf3 still play e6 to bring bishop out
-A simple tactic in this line to watch out for: 6. d4 dxe4 7. Nxe4 Qxe4 8. Bg5 Qxb2? 9. Rd1! and black is gonna have to be careful. Simple solution is don’t take the pawn on b2 on move 8!
-Magnus won a game in this line against Hikaru. He exchanged both his bishops actually.


* * *


Accelerated Panov Attack
1.  e4  c6
2.  c4  d5
3.  exd5  cxd5
4.  cxd5  Nf6

-The idea is to clamp down on d5 but black plays it anyway. If white takes twice there then that pawn is incredibly weak. Black shouldn’t take back with the queen though because it allows Nc3, which is development with tempo. Your basic goal in this as black is to develop and play against white’s weak pawn structure.
-if 3. cxd5 cxd5 4. exd5 (4. e5 Nc6) Nf6 same as the given variation.
-if 4. d4 Nf6 is fine and transposes into the regular Panov Attack.
-if something stupid like 4. Nf3 d4 is good for black, even playing 5. ...e5 maybe and gambiting a pawn because 6. Nxe5 Bd6.


* * *


The Breyer Variation
1.  e4  c6
2.  d3  d5
3.  Nd2  e5
4.  Ngf3  Bd6

-Wikipedia source calls this ineffective or doubtful.
-3. Nf3 is the better move but not by much. If that’s played, 3. ...dxe4 4. dxe4 Qxd1 and maybe black can play g6 and Bg7. It’s an equal middlegame.
-3. ...e5 gives black a great center.


* * *


1.  e4  c6
2.  Nf3  d5
3.  Nc3  Bg4
4.  h3  Bxf3
5.  Qxf3  e6

-This transposes into the Two Knights variation from above so see those notes.
- If 3. exd5 cxd5 4. Ne5 (Apocalypse Attack) Nf6


* * *

Here's a line I saw in a game on lichess: https://lichess.org/nzKQmlw2/black#0

1  e4  c6
2  Nf3  d5
3  exd5  cxd5
4  d4  Bg4
5  h3  Bxf3
6  Qxf3  e6
7  Bd3  Nf6
8  O-O  Bd6

-I misplayed it in the game so just follow this along if an early Nf3...I like getting the LSB out.


The Hillbilly Attack
1.  e4  c6
2.  Bc4  d5
3.  exd5  cxd5

-Carlsen evidently beat So in a game in 2017 with it in an opposite-color bishop ending.
-I faced this three or four times in a row on lichess and chess.com on 3/28
-One game followed 1. e4 c6  2. Bc4 d5  3. exd5 cxd5  4. Bb3 Bf5 5. d3? (5. d4 e6 is best) , and black should play e6.
-Another followed 1. e4 c6 2. Bc4 d5 3. exd5 cxd5 4. Bb5+ (second best move after Bb3) Bd7 5. Bxd7+ Nxd7 6. Nc3 (Nf3 is better) Ngf6 7. d4 e6 8. Nge2 Bb4. 8. ...Rc8 is best but black is better either way.


* * *





Friday, March 6, 2020

Find a Win

I heard Stjepan Tomic (from popular youtube channel "Hanging Pawns") on an episode of the Perpetual Chess Podcast describing how he analyzed his losses. He said one of the stages is to always try to find a win--a critical point where if you played the right moves, you would have won the game or a decisive advantage. I thought that was a great idea and it certainly makes losses a little easier to accept when you can take very specific lessons from them. From analyzing my fourth OTB game in the monthly tournament at my club, I got a great lesson in pawn endgames. I made a big reddit post about it but I'll paste the majority of that here with some minor edits.

The starting position:





















I'm playing white and I'm moving my pawns upwards. Black just played Kc4 and he's made it very clear he's going over to capture my queenside pawns. I played Ke3?? in this position. This was the critical moment to take some time and work out my plan. Instead, I allowed black to dictate play and just follow him to the queenside in hopes that I could figure out a way to leave him with a rook-pawn and get a zugzwang or stalemate trick or that he misplays something. I got lucky because he did misplay and I got a draw but the point is that I did not find the winning idea--so I'll do that now.

It's a pretty common endgame: I'm up a pawn but there are a lot on the board so there are many options of what push, there are decisions on when and how to get active with the king, how to make a passed pawn before my opponent, how fast my opponent really is, if there are tactics, etc. I was up something like +2.0 in the engine evaluation until I played Ke3. I capitulated and followed his king around when I should have taken some time and counted out a pawn race. How am I supposed to figure that out in the game with the clock ticking down? Here's how:

Black's plan is to capture my queenside pawns and then push his own. Do I have enough time to let him freely do that while I try to push my kingside majority and make a passer there? It sure looks like I have a lot more steps to accomplish my plan compared to him but we don't know unless we count.

Look at the starting position again. If left alone, Black can queen with these eight moves:

Kb3, Kxb2, Kxa3, b5, b4, b3, b2, b1=Q

So eight is a number we should keep in mind.

Can white make a passed pawn on the kingside in that time? White must either get his king in to help his pawn advance or advance the pawns on their own. White should see that his king will take three moves to get into an active square (like g5) so that seems painfully slow. Regardless, three advanced connected pawns should be able to queen against two isolated pawns without the king's help--which is the situation on the kingside. That is one of the main principles at play. We must calculate if we have time to do a pawn storm. Remember you have eight moves before black queens but white is on move. Soooo start counting:

(The first move is very nice as it freezes blacks' kingside pawns, a nice trick in pawn endgames)

g5!, f4, h4, f5, h5, g6!

The breakthrough! You should STOP HERE since you got to a critical point now that you see some forcing situations--like pawn captures or decisive pushes. This is white's sixth move, so I find it helpful to check in on where black's king and pawns would be at this stage. So again, white just played his sixth move, and since white is on move in the starting position, we can play six moves and black would be on his fifth. Here's what you should be able to visualize:




















This should be a sort of "checkpoint" you can keep going back to when you're calculating the upcoming critical moves. We got to this checkpoint by a simple count of pawn moves. You can see that black can either ignore the g6 move and push b4-b3 or capture it with one of his pawns. Importantly, you must see that white has his choice of queening square regardless:

If black completely ignores and plays b3 then white has his choice of how to promote: either g8 via a simple g6-g7-g8=Q, or white can promote on f8 or h8 via a capture onto either of those files. This is when you might notice that you can queen with check if you do it correctly, since black's king is exposed on a diagonal! Of course, if black captures on g6, white can still work it out to promote with check or with enough time to check the black king before black gets his pawn close enough. And know that if black ever took a move to get his king off the a3-f8 diagonal like moving his king to a4, that's a waste of a tempo and white will win that way too.

When you start to see these dynamics at play, you should start seeing some hope and a path forward and then re-calculate all various options black has.

So from the beginning, one such example would be:

1. g5!  Kb3
2. f4  Kxb2
3. h4  Kxa3
4. f5  b5
5. h5  b4

That concludes the first part of the simple race calculation (call it a checkpoint if you'd like) which should be the basis of your critical calculations. Remember the shortcut to do that is to count the number of moves each side has to get to a position in your head. An inner dialogue I might have up to this point is:

"So after five moves I can visualize white with all three kingside pawns on the fifth rank while black has gobbled up my queenside with his king, which sits on a3 and his pawn on b4. It's my move."

I use that shortcut to easily visualize the board after the "forced" race-like moves, which would help me find the critical breakthrough move:

6. g6!  hxg6
7. hxg6  fxg6 (f6 8. g7  b3  9. g8=Q  b2  10. Qf8+)
8. f6  b3
9. f7  b2
10. f8=Q+

A queen vs king and pawn on the 7th rank (second rank technically) is almost always winning for white (rook- and bishop-pawns are exceptions). Make sure you know the technique! I do and that would have been a lovely way to end this game but alas I didn't take the time to calculate the pawn races and breakthrough leading up to it.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 

I hope you can follow all that. On the reddit thread, someone posted a link to a nice Ben Finegold lecture about breakthroughs and I found this position illustrative--Sorry about the youtube bar at the bottom ;). White to move:






















From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XFCp5XDwuM

White wins thank to the more advanced position of his pawns. His pawns are on the 4th and 5th ranks while black's are on the 2nd and 3rd ranks (relative to each player's perspective) and that makes the difference. The idea is that white will give up some pawns to get a very valuable passed pawn that will promote before any of black's pawns. It's really just a slightly different version of the most popular breakthrough position seen below:




















You should know that position. The idea is the same: with best play, both sides will have passed pawns but white's will be more valuable because it's more advanced and thus will promote first with enough time to gobble up any of black's pawns. If I saw these ideas of advanced pawn majorities and breakthroughs, I would have won my game. Live and learn!

Wednesday, February 26, 2020

My First Ever USCF Rating!

Well I finally played a rated over-the-board game. Four in fact. They were my first real-life, big-boy chess games with actual meaning, although I'd been to the local club many times for the Sinquefield Cup and the U.S. Championship--as a spectator, I should add ;).

That's right, my local club is in St Louis. I'm lucky and also a bit surprised it took me so long to get up the nerve to play in person there. I found out that they run a month-long tournament with games every Tuesday evening. I believe the tournament designation is 4SS, meaning four rounds of a Swiss System tournament. After four weeks, they determine the winner of each section and I think they pay out some cash prizes! After getting registered with the USCF on the night I showed up, they stuck me in the U1600 section. These games were G70; D5. Did I do that right? I'm still getting used to some of the terminology and customs. Online you just click buttons and you're playing and everything is automated. So yeah, G70; D5 meaning the game is in 70 minutes and there is a five second delay. I'd never played with a delay (or a physical clock) but with over an hour for the game, it doesn't matter that much to me. I won't use this space for deep analysis of the games so I will just provide some general observations and I hope readers can derive something from it.

Game 1 - Tuesday February 4, 2020
Soooo, it's true what they say: you're gonna play a lot of children.

In the U1600 section, there were a lot of elementary-school aged kids. Perhaps fifteen. Then maybe a few teenagers, a few guys my age (30s) and an older gentleman. I'd say something like twenty players. The 1600+ section had six or eight total. In the first round, I was black and paired with a 12xx rated player. In my entire life, I've played three casual OTB games with someone that is somewhat serious about chess (has an account at chess.com so that's something I guess). Beyond that, I've played once with my great-uncle when I was in high school and then a handful of less-serious ones more recently against friends that "just know the rules." It was helpful that I have played through games with a real board so at least I knew what it was going to be like viewing the three-dimensional pieces. Still it is something to consider and to get used to when playing your first OTB games.

When playing in person, there's a lot more going on in regards to stimulants, figuring out order of moving and recording the move, board vision, etc compared to loading up a game on your phone or laptop.

Where do I set the pieces when I capture?

Why didn't my opponent adjust his pieces BEFORE the game?

Move the piece-->Tap the clock-->Record the move ... Move the piece-->Tap the clock-->Record the move ...Move the clock-->Tap the piece--...aw shiiiit. Wait, I went to the bathroom, where the hell did he move? Fuck how did I get blood on the scoresheet?!? Do we hand these in at the end? Why is my pen in my hand while I'm trying to capture with my queen? That's awkward. Wow kids are restless. They play a move and if I don't immediately play, they're up and walking about. .... Holy shit is someone crying?!

So all that is happening but please don't read them as excuses. I actually found I was able to concentrate just fine. I don't think focus is a problem. But it's a warning to everyone else that you should prepare yourself for the unknown--I mean, I knew I'd be recording moves but didn't quite imagine the learning curve with actually doing it, getting into a groove, and remembering to hit the clock. I'd say I missed it about three times which isn't so bad for an 18-move game. Oh yeah, the game....

I lost in a Giuoco Piano Four Knights Variation--I think that's what it was at least. I basically wanted to castle as early as possible and stay simple and solid since I wanted the game to keep under control while I figured out all the little things I mentioned above. I played some slow moves to fianchetto my queenside bishop while my opponent wasn't even castled, yet he was able to get some pieces in on the kingside and sac on h6. I was going down a piece with no king safety so I resigned.

Brutal.

From the pairings list, I knew my opponent's rating was in the low 1200s. Who knows if that affected anything on my end. I know my inflated-as-fuck 1700 lichess classical rating is meaningless here but I really thought I could handle a 1200. The weeks ahead proved otherwise.

Pros - Hey I made it! I drove myself to the club, signed up, and played a game! You learn so much doing things you're not used to. I found it helpful to look at the positive things I learned from this experience to improve for next time. I liked that I took my time, unlike many of the other players. Maybe they have better opening knowledge than me, or just don't analyze so much, or don't need to, or they're bored and were forced by their parents to play so they want to get out of there in thirty minutes. I like that I could now plan ahead and develop a small routine for moving, hitting my clock, scoring the move, etc. Sometimes it's the little things. I should add that my opponent was incredibly respectful at the end. He whispered that it was a good game and that I "played very well." I didn't. Haha, anyway I'm sure it was a canned line but it really doesn't matter. It was refreshing to hear that and overall, losing a game over-the-board is far easier to digest than losing to a faceless internet stranger.

Cons - Woulda been nice to win. I put my game in a lichess study so I'll have it for later. I did for all games actually. I will analyze them further.


Game 2 - Tuesday February 11, 2020
I played somebody more my age and I was white. I think my opponent was around 1100 rating. There isn't much to talk about since I covered so much in the summary of my first week. I won a piece (thanks to a blunder) and safely consolidated down and got checkmate on the board. That actually made me wonder if most of these games at this level are played to checkmate? No idea at that point. I think that I'll try to test my opponents even if I'm in a losing position, just until I'm not having fun or I can judge that they'll be able to mate and it's pointless to play on.

Pros - I won. That's always nice. It was still stressful because even getting a knight before move ten doesn't mean that much in chess. I had to remain vigilant and I still took maybe too much time in some positions but you really don't want to give up counter-play.

Cons - None. It always helps to win. I was ready to think about playing in the 1600+ section soon to really gain experience......(riiiiight)

Game 3 - Tuesday February 18, 2020
I guessed I would be black and so I was prepping the caro-kann beforehand. More or less just cramming some ideas in my head 30 minutes prior. Naturally, she played 1. d4. I tried the King's Indian and it was actually my type of game, lotsa positional moves, few captures. Anyway I dropped a pawn and was inactive. We analyzed afterwards which was fun but not comprehensive.

Pros - Another game under my belt I guess.

Cons - Second loss, I'm guessing my provisional rating will be bad.

Game 4 - Tuesday February 25, 2020
This game was last night so it's fresh in my memory. I played a 600-rated player as white and I played my normal, comfortable opening. He seemed to want to trade material and I tried to find clever ways to do this, eventually allowing lotsa trades then I won a center pawn. I didn't see incredibly far ahead and missed a check but it was innocuous and I remained up a pawn with two active rooks on the 7th. I was for sure winning but for a few reasons, I went ahead and traded way down into a pawn ending. The reasons were I was low-ish on time--I had about 20 minutes left while my opponent had over an hour on their clock. That's right. I don't think they took more than thirty seconds for any move. That's a bit crushing to your ego though, when you can't find completely winning moves in an hour of chess while your opponent is just blitzing out moves. That's chess though. I was cracking my brain figuring out advantages and he played simple moves that I couldn't find anything wrong with. The other reason for heading to a simple pawn ending is that I've been studying endgames a great deal lately so I figured I could go into a 5 vs 4 pawn endgame and figure it out. Anyway it was probably a +1 ending but he had a slightly better king and was able to gobble up some pawns where I had to use some tricks to defend. He queened while I had a pawn on the 7th with my king on the promotion square. He really should have taken 55 of his minutes if he needed it to find the win but he played quickly and let me promote then we traded. Blah blah, I was at least able to use my endgame "skills" after that to sac my rook-pawn but force the draw.

Pros - Well, I didn't lose to a 600. I sensed he wasn't incredibly serious about improvement but he played good enough moves to draw so what can I say?! I'm happy I was putting in work to calculate the last king maneuvers to ensure the draw. If it weren't for my recent endgame study, I'm almost certain I would have lost the game at the end there but I knew the technique for the draw. Drawing a 6-700 rated player instead of losing surely saved me tons of rating points so there's a direct benefit of endgame study! I'm proud that I can focus for these long games and not let my opponents speed or style of play affect my thinking too much. I'm also lucky that he didn't take some time to find his win. Probably a lot to analyze in the opening since he played some moves I hadn't seen before. I get my provisional rating after this game!


Conclusions
So I finished with a 1.5/4 score. I was getting my footing in the first one, played fine in the second, got outplayed in the third, then just had a poopy game in my fourth in which I felt I should've had better control. Fine. After four games, USCF gives you a provisional rating and I will keep that designation until 25 games. Sooooo, without further adieu.....

My rating.....

is......

973P4

(I'm pretty sure the P4 means provisional over four games. I read somewhere that sometimes it's listed as 973/4.)

10/28/2020 Update: I played two more games before the COVID-19 Pandemic cancelled OTB games for the year. I won one and lost one and my rating was finally updated again to 1096 (provisional based on 6 games). So I finally got to four digits ;)! I just wanted to add this in so people can see how much your rating can fluctuate in the lower ratings--even after going 1-1! The game I won was against a ~1200 player and my loss was against a ~1450 player, and I still gained over 100 points!

There ya go. It's way lower than I would have guessed. A fourth digit would have been nice! If you asked me four weeks ago before I played a game or saw any of my opponent's ratings, I would have said I'd be over 1200 after a month and that maybe I'd be in the 1600+ section in another month or two of playing. That's not happening. Realistically, what else could I have asked for? It's fine and actually I find plenty more to be happy about with my rating than upset. I have a rating, even if it's quite low. I'm excited that I should only go up from here. I just need more games. I hope it's true.

I'm happy that I now have a rating and a foundation on which to build. I really am excited to see how I can rise through the ranks. Moving forward, I want to shoot for at least equal scores each month, to improve my time management, to focus on game quality and analysis and not rating, and ultimately get to the 1600+ section.

Friday, February 21, 2020

Been-a-min

It's been a minute since I've posted. I've received a few notes from people that read this so that's great to know. Even if no one reads, it's still nice to plop down some chess thoughts once in a while. I will give an update on some stuff I've been doing. I'm still studying chess quite hard and I've finally taken the leap into OTB playing at my local chess club--which happens to be the St Louis Chess Club. Yepppp, I know people out there will be screaming, "How have you not been to that club yet?" Well, I technically have been but it was only to view a few of the super tournaments. Anyway I will have a post about my experience there soon.

I want to address the idea of making a study plan. I just scanned through all my posts really quickly here to reacquaint myself with this blog and I noticed there is a lot of goal-setting, planning, study routine suggestions, etc. I'm trying to steer clear of wasting mental energy and time coming up with ideas and plans and instead directly work on chess. I heard this quote on the Perpetual Chess podcast and so I want to reiterate it here:

Time spent on any challenging chess work is far better than time spent planning the "perfect" chess study schedule.

That says it better than I could. Just do something that involves active studying of the game and you're good. And that's what I will try to do here, instead of help people lay out different ways to study stuff, I'll encourage you to just do it.

Lately for me, it's been endgames. Bernd Rosen's Chess Endgame Training book has been fantastic so far. I'm nearing the end of it which feels good. Overall I'd say you should work to actually finish books because it helps morale. You can always go back a second time and re-read it to cover the more difficult parts. That is kind of how I approach chess books anyway. I can read through this book at work actually, and then play through the ideas which I've done. But I'm currently going through it a second time, taking screenshots of the positions and typing up little notes for each one. I intend to load them all up in lichess' board editor and practice them. HINT: On the mobile app, there's also an "Endgame Positions" dropdown where you can select tons of configurations, then customize each one how you want, and finally practice it against the computer or check ideas with the analysis board. This is all hugely beneficial and endgames are actually something that is more than okay to practice against a computer. It feels so good to see a position that would have confused me a year ago and know exactly what to do, or at least put together some ideas on a plan.

There have also recently been some big discussions on /r/chess on how to choose what to study. Someone was brave enough to say beginners should study openings over endgames and that blew up. It was fascinating to read. Anyway, the overall point is to carefully study something and try to finish a big chunk (like an entire book that is suited to your level) and then move on to a different aspect of the game entirely. If you are very interested in openings, then study them as long as you're not passively watching videos or trying to absorb theoretical lines with a tape you play while sleeping. Studying the strategic ideas in your favorite openings is perfectly fine. Just make sure to mix it up and move on to endgames once you reach a good stopping point in your opening study, and then when you reach that point with endgames, get a strategic book, etc. Once I wrap up this book I want to (probably need to) begin building an opening repertoire finally. I have a book on loan from the library that seems great and I can't wait to get into that. I'll surely make a post about that.

So overall, I hope to have a few posts coming in soon. One regarding my three trips to the STLCC for my first OTB games. I'll do some game analysis on that too. And I'll have a post about how I intend on trying to build an opening repertoire, too. Maybe I'll finally get a post showing off my new chess board...well new as of last summer. ;)

Friday, December 6, 2019

Lichess4545 Game Analysis 7

Summary
I finally turned in something besides a loss to my 4545 team! Hoo. Ray. I was black and opted for a Sicilian defense, something I don't really play but I'm trying to keep my opponents from doing any prep work--maybe not the best idea. I briefly looked at the najdorf and dragon, openings I'm vaguely familiar with just because I watch a fair amount of the Super-GM tournaments and I've at least seen some of the general ideas play out in those games. The problem with just "trying stuff" in my opening is that I don't really have a reliable opening repertoire. I think so far in almost all my 4545 and Lonewolf games this season, I've got out of the opening down a pawn or in an awkward position. I can't recall a feeling of "I'm solid here" at all.

In this one, my opponent played an unexpected bishop move pretty early and we never went down any kind of classical open Sicilian type game I was thinking. I ended up castling pretty late because my opponent rightly opened the position while my king was in the center. Then I got a weak c-pawn that I ended up losing. After some trades I then lost another pawn to some intermezzo tactics and then the endgame I had to chase down two outside connected passed pawns with my king. I'm sure that was completely losing but I gave it a go because we both had one knight and I knew if I could collect the outside pawns and get my king and knight back over without losing too many of my pawns, there were promises of getting it down to rook-pawns which are very hard to promote. That's what happened and we ended up drawing after a nearly 3-hour game.

I think the most telling fun fact of this game was that 8 of my first 9 moves were pawn moves. After 9 moves I had 3 pawns out, my structure was weird and all my pieces were on their original squares. White had one piece out, they were castled, and their structure was better. A totally winning opening for white I think. My 4th, 6th, and 7th moves were the most careless.

My annotations without engine assistance:
Copy and Paste this into a lichess study or the ChessTempo PGN Viewer. My opponent also informed me they added a lot of "whisper" notes into the spectator room so I'll try to track those down when I'm home and add them in!

1. e4 c5 2. Nf3 d6 3. Bb5+ { B51 Sicilian Defense: Canal-Sokolsky Attack } Nc6 {I'm okay with doubled c-pawns, it'll help with my center. Plus I didn't want to allow bishop trade with Bd7} 4. O-O {Safe king. I wouldn't castle until move 16, lol} a6 {I should've developed a kingside piece instead. If 4. ...Nf6 I didn't like 5. e5 dxe5 6. Nxe5 hitting c6 twice but 6. ...Qc7 should work there, and if Qf3, I have Bd7 if I need more support.} 5. Bxc6+ bxc6 6. c3 e5 {Not sure why I played this, I don't think e5 from white would hurt, and my move only delayed my kingside development. At this point, AKA move 6, I have five pawns off their original squares and no pieces developed (one traded off)} 7. d4 {probably correct from white to open up the center} exd4 {Bg4 might be best here. I shouldn't let the center open up. Bg4 gets a piece out, slows white down some, and protects the queen in case a queen trade ever happens.} 8. cxd4 cxd4 9. Nxd4 c5 10. Nf3 Ne7 {10. ...Nf6 11. e5 dxe5 12. Qxd8+ Kxd8 13. Nxe5 with a good knight for white and Nxf7 threat} 11. Nbd2 {I didn't see 12. Nc4 idea} g6 {11. ...Be6 12. Ng5 so perhaps Nc6 is okay with Be7 and 0-0 to come} 12. Nc4 d5 {12. ...Nc6 protects d6. I feel like I'm just reacting with no attack of my own but I think d5 isn't the right move. I recall being worried about e5 at some point but d5 would work in response I think.} 13. exd5 Qxd5 {Trying to take off some attacking pieces to get my king safe} 14. b3 {Unexpected. I was expecting the queen trade and calculating, I like black's position if 14. Qxd5 Nxd5 15. Rd1 Bb7 16. Ne3 Rd8 or 0-0-0. so maybe that's why white didn't go down that. Black's c-pawn is a weakness though.} Bg7 {Trading queens just gives white the d-file and I didn't see another move that'd prevent Bb2 from white which would be sadness.} 15. Bb2 Bxb2 {15. ...0-0 16. Bxg7 Kxg7 17. Re1 Qxd1 18. Rxd1 and that must be losing for black.} 16. Nxb2 O-O 17. Rc1 {Simply attacking the weakness. I didn't give white much trouble in the opening. They dictated play well and I mis-played a few moves. It's equal material but white is centralizing rooks and has targets whereas I am not fully developed and my pawn structure is bad. Seeing how the game played out and the c-pawn weakness, I think one of my biggest errors was 12. ...d5} Rd8 {I don't see how to save the pawn so my strategy will be to get pieces off the board and trade off pawns. I'm playing for a draw at this moment.} 18. Rxc5 Qxd1 19. Rxd1 Rxd1+ 20. Nxd1 {Here is the endgame. The obvious imbalance is material, white has two connected queenside pawns to my one. White's rook is also more active but I do like that I have a bishop. I feel okay about holding this.} Nf5 {if Be6 21. Nd4} 21. Nc3 Be6 {Looks like a good square. I missed the next simple move though. I guess ...h6 was better} 22. Ng5 {Oh. Shit.} Rc8 23. Nxe6 {Missing tactics now.} Re8 {I felt I was getting clever, noticing the knight is pinned to stop back-rank mate. I am, however, not looking ahead to 1 and 2 move tactics.} 24. Rc6 Nd4 {Played quickly, thinking I had cool tactics with the back-rank mate issue. I attack a pinned piece a second time, but I was getting too cutesy with trying to just get the piece back. Best is Rxe6 which trades rooks or 25. Rc8+ Kg7 26. f3} 25. Rxa6 {Another missed intermezzo} Nxe6 {Rxe6 forces the rook trade but I'm now down two pawns so I play to keep the Re1# threat open. It is hope chess though, a good player will see that in a long time-control game.} 26. Ne4 Nc5 27. Nf6+ {This forces consolidation and was completely missed by me. My goal was to get pieces off the board and hopefully draw a pawn-down endgame but I dropped a second pawn and this should be losing.} Kf8 28. Nxe8 Nxa6 29. Nf6 {A bumpy road to get to a losing endgame. I have to corrall the connected passers. White likewise should have raced his king over there.} h5 30. Nd7+ Ke7 31. Nb6 Kd6 32. f3 Kc5 33. Nd7+ Kb4 {I'm getting close to gobbling} 34. Ne5 Ka3 {I have to sac the f-pawn for these two pawns, they were white's big threat.} 35. Nxf7 Kxa2 36. g4 {White must find some maneuver to capture black's two pawns while black's king and knight are so far away: 36. h4 (one pawn freezes two) Kxb3 37. Ne5} Kxb3 37. g5 Nc5 38. Ne5 Ne6 39. f4 Nxf4 40. Kf2 Nh3+ 41. Kg3 Nxg5 42. Nxg6 Kc4 {42. ...Ne4+ 43. Kh4 Nf6+? 44. Kg5 losing the pawn} 43. h4 {white did well not to play Kh4 here. This must be a draw.} Nh7 44. Kf4 Kd5 45. Kf5 Kd6 46. Nf4 Ke7 47. Nxh5 Kf7 48. Ng3 Nf6 {If black can keep his knight here, white can never play h5} 49. Kg5 Nh7+ {Still drawn, but there is no need for me to move my knight. I can just hover with my king to keep it protected and white never can safely advance the pawn. These plans are hard to come up with in time pressure but they're essential in endagmes.} 50. Kh6 Nf6 51. Nh5  Nxh5 52. Kxh5 Kg7 53. Kg5 Kh7 54. h5 Kh8 55. Kg6 Kg8 56. h6 Kh8 57. h7 { Draw by stalemate. } 1/2-1/2



Here's the raw PGN:
1. e4 c5 2. Nf3 d6 3. Bb5+ { B51 Sicilian Defense: Canal-Sokolsky Attack } Nc6 4. O-O a6 5. Bxc6+ bxc6 6. c3 e5 7. d4 exd4 8. cxd4 cxd4 9. Nxd4 c5 10. Nf3 Ne7 11. Nbd2 g6 12. Nc4 d5 13. exd5 Qxd5 14. b3 Bg7 15. Bb2 Bxb2 16. Nxb2 O-O 17. Rc1 Rd8 18. Rxc5 Qxd1 19. Rxd1 Rxd1+ 20. Nxd1 Nf5 21. Nc3 Be6 22. Ng5 Rc8 23. Nxe6 Re8 24. Rc6 Nd4 25. Rxa6 Nxe6 26. Ne4 Nc5 27. Nf6+ Kf8 28. Nxe8 Nxa6 29. Nf6 h5 30. Nd7+ Ke7 31. Nb6 Kd6 32. f3 Kc5 33. Nd7+ Kb4 34. Ne5 Ka3 35. Nxf7 Kxa2 36. g4 Kxb3 37. g5 Nc5 38. Ne5 Ne6 39. f4 Nxf4 40. Kf2 Nh3+ 41. Kg3 Nxg5 42. Nxg6 Kc4 43. h4 Nh7 44. Kf4 Kd5 45. Kf5 Kd6 46. Nf4 Ke7 47. Nxh5 Kf7 48. Ng3 Nf6 49. Kg5 Nh7+ 50. Kh6 Nf6 51. Nh5  Nxh5 52. Kxh5 Kg7 53. Kg5 Kh7 54. h5 Kh8 55. Kg6 Kg8 56. h6 Kh8 57. h7 { Draw by stalemate. } 1/2-1/2

Lichess4545 Game Analysis 6

Hey I won another Lonewolf 30|30 game! I'm on 3.5 out of 4 so I'm doing well in the U1800 division. This was an Italian Opening where I played a few slow pawn moves and had to end up dropping a piece in less than 10 moves and my king was still in the center, ugh. But right as I was saying goodnight to my girlfriend and saying it'd probably be a quick game, (the game started at 10pm local time), my opponent developed his pieces and I was able to get his bishop trapped ad things got interesting. There were some tactical fireworks, probably mis-played, and then I ended up a pawn up. Endgame went okay. I'll be the first to admit that I benefited from some big blunders from my opponent and it wasn't perfect by any means on my end but I played better than my opponent and took the win.

https://lichess.org/qr4dEy8b

I was the black pieces. Please note that these are all my thoughts sans engine and sans analysis board. So i'm evaluating on my own and with my own visualization. I go through the whole game like this and write down my thoughts and lines I see. Then I go back a second time with an engine on and with the ability to play out lines on the board and add notes in. So anytime you see "The engine/stockfish/SF says...." that's only my notes after I've seen the engine eval and lines.

(4) Evans Gambit. Pretty sure it's okay to take the pawn. If 4. ...Bb6, white can play for c3 and d4 and have a big center. If 4. ...Bb6 5. c3 Nf6 6. Qe2 maybe then d4 coming for white.

If 4. ...Bb6 5. b5 Na5 and white has to address the bishop attack and also the lonesome b-pawn. As an aside, just because I used to have problems with this line, if 4. d3 Nf6 5. Ng5 d5 6. exd5 Na5 is the move to play here!

(5) ...Ba5 is only move yeah? If 5. ...Bc5 then 6. d4 is strong, giving white a big center. I think black is okay so far.

(6) White is castled and black plays a slow ...d6. I was paranoid about the fried liver attack coming, and now that a5 was occupied by my bishop I didn't have that important Na5 move. I wanted my light-squared bishop handy and ...d5 just loses a pawn. But ...d6 must be bad too. I wanted my kingside knight out and to castle, but the line I was fearing was 6. ...Nf6 7. Ng5 d5 8. exd5 and here I don't have the Na5 move-ENGINE SAYS SIMPLY CASTLING. Hmm but after 8. exd5 I do have Nxd5 which blocks the bishop's action. Granted, that d5 knight is now pinned by the bishop to the weak f7 square but the important distinction is that 9. Nc3 is not possible. Therefore, 6. ...Nf6 is probably best move here to help me castle. I played ...d6 to hope for Be6 bailout if necessary to trade off white's light-squared bishop and I had time for it because Ng5 wasn't playable yet. I over-looked the d4 push, giving white a big center. 6. ...Nf6 7. Re1 0-0 8. d4 isn't as potent for white because the c-pawn is pinned to the rook. So 7. d3 is probably necessary. NO, ENGINE SAYS D6 IS GOOD!

(7) My failure to play ...Nf6 last move and castle my king lets white strikeout in the center, correctly opening lines while my king isn't safe. Shoulda been calculating this. I can't take on d4 and allow that pawn duo which will be annoying to develop around. White is threatening d5 and if I move my knight, Qa4+ will come. Unfortunately, I was still paranoid about the fried liver attack and so my reply is egregiously slow. Taking on d4 doesn't look good: 7. ...exd4 8. Nxd4 Nxd4 9. Qxd4 hitting g7 and also threatening Qa4+. I think 7. ...exd4 8. Nxd4 Nge7 might hold for black, but if 7. ...exd4 8. cxd4 and then 9. d5 is coming. Perhaps the bailout move for black is 7. ...b6 to protect the bishop, then 8. d5 Nce7 and it's probably better for white but I'm not dropping a piece.

(8) the threat I didn't see. 8. ...Nce7 9. Qa4+ picking up the bishop. I save it the best way I can find by trying to get a good square for my bishop and now i'm considering castling long. ENGINE SAYS THIS IS NOT A THREAT, I KEP MISSING THAT PUSHING C6 WOULDA BLOCKED THE CHECK AND GUARDED A5

(10) White is up a piece, but because of the gambit line, he is down two pawns. He proceeds by trying to trade and threaten Qa4 (If I allow 11. Bxc6 bxc6 12. Qa4 I don't see how I save the a5 bishop and c6). I like my tenth move but I'm still not castled, sheesh. 10. ...Ne7 may have been better so I can castle next move hopefully, and if bishops are traded, Nxc6 guards a5. My game move preps castling long, guards f7 and if trading bishops, I'll take back with queen and hit c3 twice. There's also a Ba4 follow-up idea maybe. I considered 10. ...Bb5 as black here to hit the rook, but I see a line in which white gives the piece back but gains a pawn and makes black's king very exposed. 10. ...Bb5 11. c4 Ba6 (idea 12. ...c6 bishop trap) 12. c5 dxc5 13. Bxf7+ Kxf7 14. Nxe5+ and there are some trouble squares for black's king. I didn't see that in-game. Hard to see and not sure if that's best for black to go down that line because of king safety.

There's also this easier-to-see line: 10. ...Bb5 11. Bxb7 Bxf1 12. Bxa8 Qxa8 13. Qxf1 and black loses a pawn in that exchange because 13. ...Qxe4? 14. Qb5+ will lose the bishop.

(11) Ahh, missed this move from white. He's developing with tempo and I'm behind because my king in the middle. A principle violated! I now can't castle long

(12) ...0-0 praise the lord! I saw the queen and rook on the same diagonal immediately but c4 shuts that down. I tried calculating for tactics for a bit but decided to finally castle. ENGINE SAYS I MISSED A TACTIC HERE. QUEEN AND KNIGHT ARE FORK-ABLE BY THE PAWN SO IF BXD5 EXD5 E4 WINS A PIECE

(13) I go for some active play. I was actually close to resigning here, expecting c4 but maybe there's some complications with that after c6 from black to trap the bishop. There's also 13. ...Ng4 hitting the other bishop

(14) White pins the knight. I was expecting either c4 or Bc4.

(15) White takes some time here, I was deeply calculating a desperado 15. Bxf7+ Qxf7 16. Nxd6 Bxd3 17. Nxf7 Bxf1 18. Kxf1 Rxf7. I saw that in-game, The trick is to continue on and take the rook at the end! I somehow forget or look past that while this combo plays out. White plays Nxe5, importantly leaving his bishop under attack. So white attacks my queen but willingly chooses to open up the attack on his queen and also leave his bishop hanging. So I'm on move and I should see we each take the other's queen, then we each take the other's rook  but then once again I'm on move and there are two of white's pieces hanging. I can take the bishop and his knight is actually trapped. The line after white's in-game move is: 15. ...Bxd3 16. Nxd7 Bxf1 17. Nxf8 cxd5 and white can't save his knight.

(16) I don't play the rook capture for whatever reason. I think I see that I can take the knight and white will have two pieces hanging still but that's not the case.

(17) Ahh right, white finds the move. 17. ...Bxc3 18. Rc1 and I think white's losing one of the bishops and I'd actually be giving him a choice. So I'm now one pawn ahead when I shoulda been slightly more but okay. At least I turned it around but not as much as I could. I see 17. ...Be2 is interesting, if complicated. ENGINE SAYS 17. ...BE2 IS THE IMPORTANT MOVE TO SEE!

(20) I saw this whole line from move 18, getting the c-pawn all the way to f3 and I thought it was fine in my head, white is getting a rook on the 7th though, and I didn't see that it was hitting b7 until it was played in-game. I recall being low on time and this gave me some minutes back at least. I did know that white would have 4 pawn islands after it, whereas mine would be strong. I was worried it wasn't as good for me as I thought, see notes on move 21

(21) I was expecting 21. gxf3 Bxc3 22. Rc1 Rc8.

(22) After Kxg2, white indeed has 4 isolated pawns while black has 2 solid pawn groupings

(24) I was somewhat close to playing 24. ...Bd2 forcing a bishop trade but I'd cry with 25. Rd1. I think 24. ...Bb4 was played with Bc5 in mind

(25) Get king over to help with white's dangerous-ish pawns

(26) Strong move from white. If ...Bc5 27. Bxc5 bxc5 28. Rb5. Maybe I wasted my time on move 25 and I should have played ...Bc5 then. Instead my 26th move is a blunder because 27. Rd1 as mentioned before. Tears.

(28) Yay for mutual blunders. White misses it too.

(29) a5 comes from white, probaly not good to just give me a pawn, even though he gets a passed c-pawn.

(30) white gets behind his passer but my rook should shut his king off and my king will march over. I start to feel better at this point finally.



Conclusions

I'm happy I fought back after dropping a piece in yet another bad opening. I have to be WAY more vigilant in my openings. I'm not getting good positions.

My SECOND OTB Tournament Experience!

Allright, it's time for another tournament! Six months since my last one, no thanks to a certain variant of a certain virus which shall ...